The Umbria of white wine advances or rather the white wine of Umbria does so with the typical heights and unpredictabilities when a whole sector looks for brand-new courses. “A Montefalco” was basically this: interacting to the world that we are altering and in this luxury 2020 vintage we can state that the modification exists and in the glass it can be discovered at the very first sip almost all over.
And we had actually intuited that something was moving at Vinitaly 2024 where in the different tastings we had actually totally arbitrarily recognized 2 Umbrian red wines amongst our favourites.
Does this mean that we need to ignore those difficult Umbrian red wines, tannic to the limitation (and in some cases beyond) of pleasantness? In basic the response can just be favorable even if – as Aesop teaches – a scorpion constantly stays a scorpion. That is to be clear, in the Sagrentino location there is and constantly will be tannin today it has actually been comprehended and frequently found out to tame it in the service of enjoyable drinking.
Spoleto Trebbiano
Excellent focus – the marketplace, which is eventually significantly oriented towards gewurztraminers, requires it and in reality the goal is to double production – the manufacturers have actually provided it to Trebbiano Spoletino, a really specific and diverse white grape which custom wished to be “wed”, i.e. integrated with other growings and which today is the item of unique attention in the vineyard. The outcomes are motivating: some peaks reached likewise inform us about capacity that is still mainly unexpressed. There is still a lot to do (and research study) specifically on bubbles however it is definitely worth doing.
The red Montefalco
The Montefalco rosso we tasted left us with the impression of excellent “red wines” while we most likely wanted something various and easier and with less noticable alcohol levels. However seemingly that of a more daily and instant white wine is not the concept that the manufacturers want and we are definitely incorrect. In the Riserva typology we have actually for that reason typically discovered some really excellent red wines: broad, deep however frequently likewise really drinkable. Suitable for great meat suppers.
Sagrantino
The Sagrantinos in the different denominations we tasted throughout “A Montefalco” are the most apparent example of how Umbria white wine has actually taken the course to the future. Various courses in the vineyard and in the cellar with a single goal: to offer drinkability and pleasantness to the grape range with the greatest tannin material in Europe (and possibly likewise on the planet).
It is the best instructions for 2 factors: initially since the marketplace (appropriately) looks for enjoyment in the glass and after that since the “social” structure of Italian food has actually altered: with the generational modification at the range in households, the big meat meals that need cooking hours are significantly unusual. In addition, fats and excellent tastes are significantly prohibited from the meals of the very best dining establishments and for that reason the need for big and effective red white wines at the table is undoubtedly reducing. If we then think about that the Polstrada manages boost …
Obviously there is constantly abroad where excellent red white wines are delighted in even in between meals however here we inexorably go back to the very first point: pleasantness. So in our little method we promote the brand-new course with flying colors and with confidence wait for ever much better outcomes.
Passito Sagrantino
We have not tasted enough dried variations to have a major viewpoint on the matter. In many cases it appeared like a sweet white wine and in others something distinctively various. Obviously, eventually we wish to attempt it based on custom with lamb.
A good surprise
Finally, we can’t assist however point out an enjoyable surprise for us a minimum of: how excellent are Sagrantino-based rosés! Let’s ignore wild strawberries and huge babol sugary foods. These are fragrant rosés however with body and the best level of acidity and alcohol material. Ideal to be a perfect buddy for numerous meals throughout the meal and – we will never ever tire of duplicating it – a great pizza.
Anybody who wonders to understand which red wines we liked the most need just remain tuned to Avvinando: in the next couple of days we will likewise speak about bottles and cellars. Stay tuned.
Sergio Bolzoni
