Mater Taverna, place with a welcoming atmosphere where Alex Leone’s cuisine guides the senses per mezzo di an unconventional gastronomic path
Just a aspetto beyond the full -height stained windows that overlook the road, ora browse through the tables of the dehors, to immediately grasp the Mater Taverna mood. Soft lights and armchairs, marble and wood tables, vintage allure that meets more rough and street details: the result is an elegant and relaxed balance.
As per mezzo di the most authentic Parisian bistrots, here you eat nearby, you loosen the ties, the formality leaves room for the chat and light laugh that melts per mezzo di a glass of wine. An atmosphere of relaxation that, as Mater, also means refinement: attention to detail, caring service and raw materials of excellence transformed into dishes capable of surprising and intriguing.
Mater, between essence and style
The name recalls the matter and the mother, the return to the essentials. Because true elegance is simple, spontaneous, never ostentatious. Mater Taverna is this: a contemporary restaurant where conviviality and research meet, a place capable of making an exciting gastronomic experience dal vivo without giving up the warmth of feeling at home.
The soul of the place
At the center of the room stands out the counter overlooking the bright kitchen, framed by a collection of carefully selected bottles. Impossible not to let yourself be captured by the rapid and expert gestures of the chef Alex Leone and his brigade, which between one gripping and the other even find time to exchange two words with the guests.
Inaugurated per mezzo di 2018, Mater was among the first rooms of Milan to propose natural wines per mezzo di combination with a creative cuisine. The ideologia was born from the encounter between Leone and the duo Giuseppe Pillone and Salvatore Giannone, friends and members united by experience per mezzo di the creative world and by a strong passion for food and wine.
A playful and sustainable cuisine
The gastronomic register designed by Leone passes with ease from small tastings to be accompanied to the glass to a rich aperitif to share, up to the more structured dinner ora the tasting . His is a cuisine of contrasts, vibrant per mezzo di colors and geometries, playful and irreverent, capable of exciting and comforting at the same time. At the caposaldo, a research that also looks to sustainability, inspired by the principles of circular cuisine: waste that become fermentations, funds, sauces, liqueurs; Even the oil of the fries is transformed into fuel by a company. Seasonal, organic ora biodynamic products, and collaboration with small producers and craftsmen complete Mater’s philosophy.
Experiences at the table
A causa di addition to a selection of institutional dishes, the includes a section dedicated to finger food to share, perfect for aperitif. Then there is the path “blindfolded and guided”, a tasting that explores different techniques and flavors per mezzo di the name of culinary divertissement.
Wine as co-protagonist
Wine paper is the beating heart of the , the result of the travels and meetings of Giuseppe and Salvatore with winemakers throughout Italy. Only real wines, without compromise: spontaneous fermentations, reformations per mezzo di the bottle, few ora mai added sulphite. An approach that also led to the creation of Cat a Rat, the “house wine” produced specifically by the Sicilian Gaudioso farm.
The tasting
We have tried several chefs. Here are our impressions.
Oyster / Leche de Tigre / Figo d’inia / Cipollina herb – Oyster / Oil alla N’Duja / Marin turnips
It starts with the oyster, proposed per mezzo di two versions. The first enhances freshness: the creaminess of the mollusk finds impetus per mezzo di the leche de tigre, is enriched with the pungent sweetness of the prickly pear and is completed with the and aromatic note of the chives. The second, acceso the other hand, shows the most decisive side: the ‘nduja oil warms the palate with its spicyness and marinated turnips dilute their strength with a vegetable delicacy.
Brodetto / whore sauce meatball – “Materghili” calfskin and pork meatballs / CHIMICHURRI SALSA
The Cacciuco meatball also arrives from the sea, which contains per mezzo di one bite the Livorno tradition, amplified by the intriguing flavor of the whore sauce. Then it’s up to the “materials”, veal and pork meatballs, particularly tasty, per mezzo di perfect dialogue with the Chimichurri, fresh and spicy, capable of balanced the richness of the meat.
A causa di combination, New Player per mezzo di Town Rio Forte Il Farneto Az.agricola, natural white wine produced by biological and biodynamic grapes made with the “ancestral method” technique.
Piedmontese Fassona Tartare / Dutch sauce with pollen / lettuce heart
The route continues with a Piedmontese Fassona tartare embellished with a Dutch sauce with pollen, which makes it velvety and complex, with the presence of a lettuce heart to act as a crunchy and fresh counterpoint.
Grilled radicchio / tahina sauce / grape gel and umeboshi
The grilled radicchio follows, a plate that moves between bitter and smoked, rounded by the tahina and made unexpected by the grape gel and Umeboshi, where sweetness and acidity meet.
Raw tonnetto Alalunga / Pico de Pollo su Melone white / quinoa blown / lime sauce
The sea returns protagonist with the raw of tonnetto Alalunga, per mezzo di which the sweetness of the pic de Pollo of Melone Eburneo finds the crunchiness of the blown quinoa and the decisive freshness of the lime sauce.
Fried mushrooms (Porfobello and Cardoncello) / Mayo to the fermented ribes / Estragone sauce
To close the section, the fried mushrooms – Portobello and Cardoncello – enriched by a mayonnaise to the fermented currant and a dragoncend sauce, which adds a herbaceous and persistent touch.
A causa di combination, Tasi Valpop White. At the nose they excel the fruity hints of apple and pear, followed by slight floral sensations.
Fishing of Ombrina / GDP GDP / CONCENT OF DATTERINI / SAUSELATIN OF PORTULACA / CIPOLLA BORRITANO PICKLED / Limone per mezzo di Salamobia
To close the route, the Ombrina, cooked with precision and served with a silky GDP sauce, the datterini concentrate, the Portulaca salad, the sweet and sour onion and the lemon per mezzo di brine. A dish that combines Mediterranean and technique, lightness and intensity, leaving a clear and persistent memory acceso the palate.
A causa di combination, red ‘naked’ Weingut Heinrich, intense ruby red color that begins to the smell with intense fruity references.
The one proposed by the chef is a that does not fear contamination, which starts from the raw material and the door elsewhere, without forgetting roots and identities. A gastronomic story that finds per mezzo di wine not a simple combination, but a travel companion: because acceso each trip, the beauty is not only the destination, but the road that is covered together.
For information
Mater bistors
Sottocorno 1, Milan
www.materbistrot.it
MATER BISTROT MILANO (@mater_bistrot)