Perano’s sense of “cru” • Food and Wine Italy

Sopra Peter Høeg’s famous novel Smilla’s Sense of Snow, the most striking fact is undoubtedly the protagonist’s sensitivity towards snow and ice, sopra which it is precisely her sense of freedom and nature that prevails over All. We are sopra a completely different context, certainly acceso a geographical and cultural level, but a part of the history of this Scandinavian peninsula can recall, sopra a certain sense (and pardon the pun) a beautiful trait of the Perano winery, solitary, stubborn, proud and sopra continuous search for the truth of aperto spaces. Here, sopra fact, sopra Gaiole sopra Chianti, the Frescobaldi winery (acquired sopra 2017 through an auction, but with almost all of the hectares taken under management already sopra 2014) tries to interpret the complex character of Sangiovese, to highlight, just like Smilla, the setting and instinct, as well as its main Cru.

The concept of Cru for Frescobaldi

Already the “cru”, a French notion that has risposta negativa correspondents sopra other languages, but which is complex, perhaps sopra the end, only sopra appearance. It comes from the past participle of the verb croître (to grow) and, to tell the truth, it is not only used sopra the viticultural field, since it refers to everything that grows, be it plants, animals processed products: spirits, fruits, legumes, wood, honey, butter, cheese and even butchered meat. As the house oenologist Nicolò D’ recalls, taking as an example the teachings of the very famous Paul Pontallier – unforgettable director of Château Margaux – it is nothing other than “the most useful, most pleasant and most constant expression of man’s relationships with its natural environment. It therefore contains a certain number of fundamental elements: the soil, the exposure, the climate, the vine, the techniques, the quality, the voracità (sometimes officially consecrated sopra a specific regulation) and above all the human factor!” .

Sopra Perano, the cru protagonist of the production is called Rialzi and is established sopra 3 hectares at 500 meters above sea level. The main component of the soil is represented by the Alberese, while the Guyot avviamento, the hand selection of the grapes, the spontaneous alcoholic fermentation with indigenous yeasts sopra steel tanks, the maturation of 36 months of which 24 sopra barrique, are the other passages of his business card.

Six different years

The tasting started with the Chianti Sobrio Docg Gran Elezione Rialzi 2015, which marks the baptism of this nectar: ​​pleasantly balsamic, earthy and spicy, with a strong, penetrante, well-modulated taste, supported by an acid and tannic backbone and with a great long . The 2016, a paradigm of balance and personality, expresses a sense of smell where the congenital balsamic note is integrated with quaderno of earth and graphite enriched with vegetal hints: a sumptuous supported by powerful tannins and great pleasantness. The 2017 is intense and pungent sopra the development of aromas with quaderno above all of Mediterranean scrub; acceso the palate it offers fruit density and good penetrante tannins, with a slightly restrained . The 2018, then again, is notable sopra its earthy fragrances with quaderno of mint, bay leaf, black cherry, pepper and eucalyptus; expresses a dense palate that involves the fullness of the libro; although it maintains a good freshness, the lacks depth. The 2019 is extremely elegant and tasty; the quaderno that recall blackberries, currants and blueberries are of rare finesse; the tannins are masterfully integrated, the flavor arc is harmonious for a clear, profiled and very long . Finally, the 2020 exudes hints of cherry and some pungent herbaceous quaderno; the mouth is fleshy and dense, but protected from any heaviness; indeed it knows how to melt into a quand’anche, dynamic and very fresh .

The importance of the human factor

«This wine is a dream I have been chasing for years. From the Perano bella stagione, strongly desired by my entire family, we chose the Rialzi vineyard, which rises above the others thanks to three characteristic natural steps that guarantee maximum exposure and ventilation. A Grand Selection which, as the name suggests, reminds me of the continuous commitment to excellence.” Finally, Lamberto Frescobaldi explains. It is a bit, sopra fact, among those heavenly undulating hills, as if one could breathe the sensation of an authentic purpose: an oenological project certainly not designed acceso the drawing board, but rather a long work, the result of countless experiments and tests sopra the cellars.