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Paolo Vagaggini: the master of Sangiovese who taught the wine to speak Tuscan

22 May 2025
in Wine
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Paolo Vagaggini: the master of Sangiovese who taught the wine to speak Tuscan
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There are meetings that, although recent, manage to leave a deep mark. Knowing Paolo Vagaggini was one of those. Schive, cultured, rigorous man, endowed with a passion that is perceived con every word, con every gesture, but that has never needed clamor. Even if our relationship has recently been born, I have a sincere and growing estimate for him. I consider it one of the greatest interpreters of Italian wine, a true intellectual of enology.

Talking about him means entering the heart of Tuscany more authentic, the one that pulsates con the hills of Chianti Sobrio, Montalcino, Montepulciano. It mainly means talking about his virtuous obsession for Sangiovese, a fascinating and difficult grape variety, which requires sensitivity, experience and absolute rigor. Per over forty years of career he has contributed to writing the stylistic rebirth of entire territories, becoming a point of reference for those looking for authenticity, depth, identity.

His approach struck me immediately. The winemaker, for him, must not overlook the wine, but accompany him. His work is that of a refined interpreter, capable of translating the language of vineyards into coherent, elegant, never screamed oenological expressions. Every wine that bears its signature is a dialogue between territory, technique and vision.

I had the pleasure of visiting Amantis, the family business and to meet wonderful people, who embody passion, culture and measure. I remember with particular emotion an intense evening, full of reflections and comparison the current esame of Italian enology. An authentic, enriching dialogue. I was able to appreciate the intellectual acumen, the elegance and the extraordinary professionalism of Paolo, but also his ability to listen, the profound vision that guides every choice.

At the Vinoway Selection 2025, Brunello Montalcino 2019 was awarded with the score of 95/100 Astro, a Tuscan classic that represents the excellence of Amantis’ production.

Next to him, I also had the pleasure of knowing his elegant lady, Bernadetta Angela Tacconi, a fundamental presence and owner of the company, who coordinates the family and the cellar with grace and firmness, with an unmistakable style. A woman of extraordinary refinement, a splendid accompagnatrice turistica, capable of making every guest feel part of a world where rigor and welcome coexist naturally.

And I cannot fail to mention his son Jacopo, brilliant and passionate winemaker, awarded by Vinoway con 2023 for the best young Italian winemaker. A recognition that testifies to the talent, preparation and the future that this family is building with consistency and love.

The name of Paolo Vagaggini appears next to legendary labels – Biondi Sandi, Caprili, the closed, brown – but his greatness also lies con discreet support for many small realities, which has helped to grow without ever giving up penalty and truth.

To him, who had the pleasure of knowing recently, but who already considers a fundamental figure of Italian enology, my most sincere admiration goes. Because wine, like life, feeds meetings that know how to leave its mark.

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