The rebirth of the slave, “liberated” on Lake Caldaro • Food and Wine Italia

The name is already an intriguing word . Yes, because the grape variety known as slave – Vernatsch per mezzo di Tyrolean German and trolllinger per mezzo di Germany seems to be derived from the constraint to which the vine was subjected by the winemakers by linking plants to the supports (traditionally the pergolato) to be able to control its development.

Playing acceso that name, it could be said that the slave risks being still a prisoner of a prejudice that has seen her for a long time as “Cinderella” among the vines cultivated per mezzo di South Tyrol, where the winemakers almost always end up preferring other wine projects. Not surprisingly, many tend to propose every other label per mezzo di tasting, leaving acceso the sidelines what has represented for centuries the wine identity of the region.

The slave is per mezzo di fact one of the oldest vines of South Tyrol, with roots that date back at least to the thirteenth century. Until the seventies, it was the predominant grape variety per mezzo di the territory, contributing to the reputation of the Region as a producer of red wines. However, with the advent of international varieties and the growing demand for different wines – more structured before and white subsequently – the slave cultivated surface has decreased drastically. Durante 2003, 1,877 hectares of slave were counted; Durante 2023, the surface was reduced to only 556 hectares. Yet, per mezzo di the heart of South Tyrol acceso the banks of Lake Caldaro, the Fil Rouge has never broken and there is a new fascination for the Vernatsch which here finds a cradle of election, so much so as to push the South Tyrol Consortium to bless the Kaltererse preview promoted by the association of local producers.

The Kalterersee, authentic expression of the territory

The Kalterersee Lake Caldaro is not only a geographical place, but also a DOC that identifies the wines produced mainly by slave grapes grown per mezzo di the surroundings of the lake. These wines are distinguished by elegance and freshness, with a peculiar floral aromaticity, soft tannins and moderate alcoholic content. It would seem the ideal profile per mezzo di line with the new consumption trends, especially young, but the low prices (a quintal of slave grapes is paid for much less than other grapes) and the fragility per mezzo di the vineyard do not play per mezzo di favor of the grape.

Yet per mezzo di the land of Caldaro it seems to resist, even if the doc is supported by labels also of other vines. The cultivation of the slave per mezzo di the schieramento – per mezzo di the oldest vineyards – remains anchored to the traditional system of the South Tyrolean pergolato, which protects the grapes from the excessive sun and promotes balanced maturation. This method, although it requires a manual harvest, contributes to enhancing the quality of the wine, even if it plays again against mechanization, which per mezzo di fact is leading to other breeding systems.

Durante recent years, the producers of Caldaro have embarked acceso a path of enhancement of the slave through the clonal selection and the reduction of the yields hectare. The result per mezzo di the glass is undeniably valuable. If once the slave was considered a “simple” wine, light and drinker, almost disengaged and per mezzo di this sense less appreciated, with the evolution of winemas the music has changed. And precisely per mezzo di the graceful of many Vernatsch is the secret of their beauty, because what was exchanged for simplicity is actually elegance that does not need heavy tricks – the aging per mezzo di wood can penalize it – but which shows a tenacious and daily depth.

The wine has a brilliant ruby ​​guise, it is elegant and fruity acceso the nose with agenda of cherry, small berries, sometimes floral and spicy shades, while the sip flows harmonious, with gentle tannins and a freshness that encourages the second glass.

The 2024 vintage shows a clear and identity Kalterersee

The 2024 vintage, marked by a complex and variable climate, has tested the experience of the winemakers. The result, however, is a wine that already per mezzo di the youth presents itself clear and identity, with a balance between acidity, freshness and aromatic cleaning that makes it immediately recognizable.

Crunchy and floral, but at the same time expression of an elegant tension (the one that is normally indicated as minerality), the Vernatsch of Caldaro tell of alpine herbs and balsamic shades, sweet roots and a tactile sensation that has the personality of those who must not scream to be admired.

The 2024 samples tasted per mezzo di preview per mezzo di Caldaro are a deep breath per mezzo di the future of the slave. Wine wines are discovered per mezzo di the glass capable of momentum and neatness, with floral perfumes and forest fruit but without smuckles, graphite agenda, sharpened by herbaceous shades of Artemisia and roots, per mezzo di a that conquers because there are risposta negativa exaggerations. At the same time the sip is sober, elegant, clear with a certain elegant flavor, pulpy per mezzo di the mouth and slightly balsamic per mezzo di the aftertaste. Even where the refinement per mezzo di wood emerges, the sincere of the grape is not invasive defaced, accompanying the drinkability with refinement.

Among the most convincing 2024 references, some inevitable protagonists such as Manincor’s der Keil, always capable of making the fruit, flavor and balsamic games perceive, with the man of man to smooth the excesses, but also the Leitn of Unterhofer and the Olte Reben of T. Pichler, who promise two classic superior of great finesse, freshness and elegance. They also conquer the classic Eduard of Steflhof (freshness, flavor, deep tannins) and Niklas’ Klaser Hecht (Bel fruit and lots of freshness). Also elegant is the balance between the fruit and intriguing agenda of bitter almond almond of the Kalterersee upper classic of Bottiglieria Tramin, while that of Bottiglieria Kaltern plays of compactness per mezzo di the structure and reveals a sober freshness that accompanies the sip.

Wanting to deepen the comparison with the previous vintages, they deserve the choice for an excellent chalice the Kalterersee Dominikus Eccezionale 2018, which shows well any tiredness but stands out for flavor, balsamic agenda and great freshness; Der Keil 2019 by Manincor, for the succulent sip, the clear and depth structure, the veiled tannin; the classic upper Alexander 2017 by Nicolussi-Leck, with inviting perfumes of crunchy cherry and freshness and a juicy and balsamic sip; Niklas’ upper 2015 classic, which despite the evolution maintains a more oriented structure acceso hardness; The upper Novis Eccezionale 2017 by Ritterhof, fleshy and savory even with a ending that brings out the tannin contracted by the wood; The Seppi’s upper classic Pelagium by 2022, which shows a nice balance despite the lively and fleshy push per mezzo di the sip; T. Pichler’s Upper Classic Olte Reben 2023, whose dynamic sip shows excellent management per mezzo di large barrels.

Wine and local culture

The slave is also part of a social fabric. Durante Caldaro, the wine is intertwined with local culture, gastronomy, architecture, landscape. Initiatives such as the Wine path – a panoramic path per mezzo di the shape of eight that crosses the vineyards and touches historic and modern buildings – the presence per mezzo di the village of an Academy of South Tyrol and a wine museum are demonstrated.

The Wein.kaltern initiative (born 25 years spillo) made the country a quality laboratory: from the of the glasses developed with Riedel, to the clear and distinctive labeling of the bottles, up to collaborations with the world of catering and tourism. And so the “Caldaro to be tasted” project takes impetus to unwind wine – thanks to its versatility – to other typical products such as the Kaminwurzen per mezzo di wine, the original Polenta of Caldaro, the corn bread, the truffles to the Kalterersee the local balsamic vinegar. The slave thus becomes the protagonist of a wider food and wine narrative, per mezzo di which wine accompanies and enhances the culinary identity of the schieramento.