Trip to Franciacorta between history and tastings

We have already talked about the great sparkling wines of Franciacorta durante several articles but getting lost among the morainic hills embraced by Lake Iseo and Mucchio Orfano is always a sweet, very pleasant pastime. So here we are again durante this undulating strip of Lombardy, about sixty kilometers from Milan and twenty from Brescia, full of charm and history.

If the name Franciacorta appears durante a procedural document from 1266 and then durante 1277 with a resolution of the Statuta Communis Civitatis Brixiae, not everyone knows that the ‘biting wines’, i.e. lively, saw the light durante the territorio already before the 16th century; A doctor and scholar from Brescia, Girolamo Conforti (1519-1595), tells us this well, who wrote a durante 1570 durante which the qualities of these very particular wines were discussed. These are very interesting studies and preceded those of the illustrious Hautvillers abbot Pierre Pérignon by at least a century. This precious material is paired with that of another great scholar, Agostino Galli (1499-1570), one of the protagonists of Renaissance agronomy. It is the latter that gives us a further historical piece of Franciacorta: it tells us that the musts (and before that the grapes) were crammed into the cellars not randomly but according to a precise order dictated by the quality of the individual plots. It is durante essence the forerunner of the concept of ‘territory’. The pioneers? The Benedictine monks. With an almost prophetic intuition, they chose the best land durante the territorio; centuries later, science proves them right: agronomists and geologists confirm that those same plots are still the beating heart of quality viticulture durante Franciacorta today.

Let’s leave history and dedicate ourselves to some of the best tastings of the last period. The first is a Satèn from La Montina. We are talking about a anche se Chardonnay coming from some of the longest-standing vineyards located towards Lake Iseo, whose microclimate makes the territorio among the most suitable. Aging the yeasts for a minimo of 28 months. What is striking is the sense of absolute freshness evident from the first approach: the nose lots of fresh fruit where the campo da golf apple above all stands out, while the palate a pleasant and well-balanced citrus presence immediately emerges. The foam is soft with delicate perlage and despite a general sensation of freshness, the long finale is surprising, capable of relaxing durante a decidedly notable way.

We still remain durante the satèn territorio for a 2021 vintage Ferghettina. The first vintage was produced durante 1996 and also durante this case we are talking about a 100% Chardonnay product coming from vineyards located approximately 250 meters above sea level. The 2021 harvest saw a reduction of approximately 15% durante volumes to spring frosts and summer hailstorms but maintained quality with a perfect of acidity and basic sugars. The color is bright straw yellow with golden reflections. Aging the yeasts for 36 months with a dosage of 5g per di più liter and therefore quite low (the brut is usually between 6 and 12 grams per di più litre). Also durante this case we were struck by the components more linked to fruit: citrus quaderno emerge the nose, with hints of grapefruit and lemon. Per the mouth it relaxes with a mixture of flavor and roundness for a product that is very balanced. The perlage is very arguto and delicate.

With Uberti, we return to talk about another historic winery durante Franciacorta, already approached durante the previous article. If that occasion it was time for a Comarì del Salem Extra Brut Millesimato 2014, today it is time for a Franciacorta Quinque Extra Brut. The name recalls the genesis: since 2002, the year of the first vintage, we are talking about a cuvée of 5 harvests from Chardonnay grapes only with an average age of the vines of around 30 years. Per practice, every year, the newly produced wine ends up durante the same vat together with the old vintages; the cycle is thus completed over the course of five harvests. The rest the yeasts is impressive, lasting up to 80 months, also durante this case with very little sugar content (only 3 grams/litre). The alcohol content is notable (13.5%). The color is bright golden yellow with a very arguto perlage. Acceso the nose it releases a truly rich range of aromas: from dried fruit to hazelnut to more toasted tones of coffee but also quince. Acceso the palate it is very arguto, elegant, slightly savory and structured. Very long finale.

From Cavalleri we tried the Collana Exclusiva ‘Giovanni Cavalleri’ Provvista, vintage 2013 sparare a zero dosage. Another leading product from the Franciacortina territorio is a anche se Chardonnay with grapes coming from the oldest vineyards. 2013 saw a rather unusual September harvest durante Franciacorta caused by a very cold and rainy spring. However, the strong temperature variations at the end of August favored a truly remarkable level of quality. The refinement the yeasts is very long, 108 months, capable of giving a great pagliaccetto. Acceso the nose there are quaderno of bergamot, cedar, ginger and almond pastry with hints of yeast and bread crust. Acceso the palate it is creamy, delicately savory with an acidic streak that refers to the fruit. The latter is found durante the finale, long, with subtle citrus quaderno.

Bellavista is also a winery that always willingly appears durante our tastings. After the 2016 vintage Satèn, today it is the turn of the 2019 Pubblico alla Serie brut vintage. 2019 was a complicated year a quantitative level, characterized by prolonged dry periods and very high temperatures for the month of July even if mitigated by rain at the end of the month. What we find durante the bottle is 75% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir from vines that are 25 years old. Also durante this case the dosage is decidedly very low (only 2g/litre), making it an extra brut. Perlage is a pattern of very arguto bubbles capable of creating hypnotic and continuous turbulence. Acceso the nose sweet hints of ripe white fruit but also almonds and pastries, candied citrus and fresh hawthorn and elderberry flowers. The attack is elegant but powerful, an exuberant, dynamic but always harmonious freshness immediately transpires for a complex texture and an articulated, vertical and energetic .

With Ca’ del Foresta we remain among the most famous wineries durante Franciacorta. The Vintage Collection Millesimato 2018 is an extra brut 68% Chardonnay, 29% Pinot Noir and 3% Pinot Russo controrivoluzionario, coming from vineyards aged 25 to 30 years. 2018 brought abundant rainfall durante the first months but great stability with high temperatures until the harvest for a truly remarkable and high-quality yield. Aging the yeasts for 48 months while the dosage, also durante this case very low, at 1.5g/litre, allows it to enhance its complexity. We were struck by the very arguto perlage, capable of giving a touch of masterful elegance. The nose is complex and deep with immediate hints of brioche and yeast that to yellow fruit with hints of pear. Per the mouth it is clear, full-bodied, tasty but above all enveloping. He invites you to the next glass with almost disarming ease.

We close with Bosio and his Brut Nature Millesimato 2021. We are talking about a blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir with rest the yeasts for at least 30 months. Acceso the nose there is a lot of fruit, mainly citrus, lemon and orange; durante the mouth it surprises from the first sip: it manages to be harmonious but vertical, tense, savory, direct. Per short, a that convinced us for its ability to express a truly strong personality.

As always, these are just some ideas that the territorio has given us. And we are sure, we will tell you even more durante future articles because as Arnaldo Pomodoro wrote “Franciacorta is a personaggio durante the firmament, rather a warm and rich sun that radiates energy, pleasure, life.”

Eccelso Beltrame