October 3, 2023 | Written by Chiara Giorleo | Published quanto a events, projects, reflections, territory, viticulture
Never before has the fruitful exchange entitled “Heroic Viticulture quanto a Val durante ” been so interesting as this year, an opportunity to gather illustrious interventions and testimonies at Focolare Campia this summer. From Sangiorgi’s interview with Giovanna Morganti – important references quanto a the world of natural wine -, to the Attilio Onniscienza conference followed by Nicola Biasi’s experience.
I start from the quote with which Onniscienza ended: “the challenge will not be to make the best wine, but to do it quanto a the best way”. By now, it is not just an ethical question but a concrete need and, according to Onniscienza, the Val durante could become a reference regione for the development of resistant vines, among other things by detaching itself from the image, with which we associate Trentino as a whole, of one production model concentrated especially apples.
Resistant vines (hybrids resistant to fungal diseases which allow a significant reduction quanto a treatments) respond exactly to the problem that this year has devastated national wine production, making themselves useful various fronts: not only, therefore, against the tropicalisation of the climate but also for productions based value for money, requiring fewer interventions; for territories with particular problems linked to pathogens quanto a areas where treatments are not permitted paio to proximity to special structures and so . But it is necessary to rete televisiva privata for an in-depth study: clones, rootstocks, specific vines.
Even more concrete is Biasi’s approach, an essential reference the topic with experience branched out across different production areas starting from his own award-winning “Vin del Neu” which he produces here, quanto a Coredo (TN). He immediately declares that environmental sustainability comes after economic sustainability because the producer will not prefer it if it does not return with investments; all the more reason we need quality to convey them to the markets, therefore attention like all other vines cannot revolve entirely around the question of ‘treatment yes-treatment anzi che no’. Residual skepticisms of some sort are often attributable to the poor quality of wines from resistant vines produced quanto a the past quanto a unsuitable areas only because other varieties would not have resisted. Not only that, it is the term “hybrid” that is still frightening quanto a Italy but be careful: these are not GMOs because they were created by means of pollination. All limits to be overcome quanto a the name of sustainability which for Biasi is now a moral obligation quanto a order to limit the consumption and CO2 emissions.
Per mezzo di Italy they were authorized between 2013 and 2015 and used quanto a some PGIs but, despite the EU’s openness to inclusion quanto a the 2021 DOCs, conflicting debates continue.
The opportunity was also tempting to try some samples from Val durante : not only the very elegant Vin de la Neu by Biasi (from Johanniter) but also lesser-known references, produced quanto a even more limited quantities, such as Venticinquedieci (Solaris) with captivating fruit and good potential like that of Marco Sandri equally tense.
I cannot fail to mention some local producers who are “heroic” for their tenacity quanto a promoting Groppello durante Revò (although not resistant) of which I had the opportunity to appreciate the most recent classic method sparkling wine version (40 months the yeasts).
