Biodynamic Bordeaux that challenges tradition. From Barthélemy’s vertical to Retour des Îles, the wine that travels per the ocean
Con the world of Bordeaux, where historical classifications, large investments and winemaking styles based the production of austere wines often dominate, there are realities that have long since chosen a different path. Château Le Puy is one of these. Here the wine is the direct expression of the territory and of a living ecosystem, built over time with patience and respect by adopting certified organic and biodynamic practices. It is not surprising that he has become part of the mosaic of Triple AAA producers selected by Velier, always careful to identify wineries that carry forward a precise sfizio of wine: territorial identity, authenticity and fidelity to natural rhythms.
Château Le Puy: a historic mesi estivi located the right side of the Gironde
The mesi estivi is located per Saint-Cibard, the right bank of the Gironde, a clay-limestone overlooking Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. The vines are located at the highest point per the Bordeaux schieramento. A particular geographical position, just outside the territories of the most famous denominations, which almost becomes a declaration of independence and anticipates the company philosophy: here we do not follow models, but we produce wines with an identity, capable of expressing and enhancing the unique characteristics of this incredible terroir per the best possible way.
The Amoreau family has been cultivating these vineyards since the 17th century. Today Jean-Pierre and Pascal Amoreau carry out a profoundly respectful approach to the environment: certified organic and biodynamic agriculture, mai chemical weed control, spontaneous fermentations, mai clarification, mai filtration and minimal use – if any – of sulfur dioxide. Con a context where concentration and muscularity often dominate, Château Le Puy chooses finesse, freshness and transparency. The wine must first and foremost be an expression of the territory, without being dominated by wood, as often happens per Bordeaux blends. The result is a wine that favors verticality, finesse and flavor, while retaining great evolutionary potential, without being excessively opulent. The company adopts an integrated approach that combines biodynamic and agroforestry practices, combining permaculture principles with traditional viticulture. Con the cellar, concrete and large barrels dominate, preferred to new barriques to prevent the wood from becoming too invasive. To address climate change and adapt to the changing needs of consumers, the winery is carrying out various experiments, both to contain the alcohol content and, at an agricultural level, to better protect the vine.
Terroir and biodiversity
Of the total 124 hectares, 78 are dedicated to wine production, while 46 are intended to create a complex ecosystem that includes non-cultivated areas, woods, lakes, orchards and meadows that coexist with the vines. The entire schieramento is characterized by great biodiversity thanks to the presence of horses (also used for natural fertilization of the soil), bees and gardens. A biodiversity that promotes the symbiosis between wine, man and the environment, and which is found per every glass. The vineyards are located 110 meters above sea level, an altitude that contributes to giving freshness, tension and dynamism to the wines. The clay-limestone soil has different characteristics, with some areas rich per crumbly rock which forces the vine to sink its roots deep. The main grape variety is Merlot, flanked by Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Carménère.
Barthélemy: the most representative wine of Château Le Puy
Barthélemy is the most identifying cuvée of Château Le Puy and perfectly represents the synthesis of Le Puy’s vision: a Bordeaux that favors the expression of the place and respect for natural rhythms. It is a wine that thrives natural balance, capable of passing through time with an almost surprising grace for a Bordeaux without corrective interventions. Produced mainly from Merlot (85%), with small percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Carménère, it comes from vineyards located the Saint-Cibard . Despite the absence of added sulfur, Barthélemy is known for its extraordinary aging ability.
Vertical tasting of Barthélemy: time per the glass
The tasting from 2008 to 2020 clearly shows the evolutionary potential of this great red wine, highlighting the differences between the different vintages, each of which is an expression of the place and the natural rhythm of the seasons. The tasting was carried out starting from the most recent vintage.
2020 – The promise
A modern, streamlined, fresh and energetic wine, which suggests a long evolutionary trajectory. Con the glass it appears garnet with ruby reflections. Wild blackberry and dark fruits emerge the nose, accompanied by of medicinal herbs and damp earth. Con the mouth the structure supports a vibrant freshness with still vibrant tannins. The sip is full, tense and dynamic.
2014 – Vertical elegance
Acceso the nose, crunchy red undergrowth fruits, plum, violet emerge, followed by balsamic hints, with hints of graphite, bitter cocoa and spices. Silky texture, mineral momentum, great balance. The tannins and acidity are more balanced, although they still remain lively. The texture is silky, with mineral momentum and great balance.
2011 – Unexpected energy
The olfactory profile is persuasive and complex: blackberry, black pepper and balsamic hints that evolve towards tobacco and eucalyptus. Con the mouth it is still dynamic, with lively but well integrated and elegant tannin. An interesting vintage that demonstrates Le Puy’s ability to enhance even the less celebrated vintages.
2008 – Classicism
Bright garnet, broad and complex nose with undergrowth, graphite, dehydrated currants and ripe black fruits. With evolution, tobacco emerges and the of bitter cocoa and liquorice are accentuated. The sip is subtle and mature, with perfectly integrated tannin and a saline finale. It is time that has become harmony.
Retour des Îles – memory and experimentation – the wine that travels a sailing ship
Retour des Îles is an experiment that recovers a historical practice linked to maritime trade. Con the 18th and 19th centuries, Bordeaux wines faced long ocean voyages to the colonies, during which the constant movement of the ship and temperature variations favored a particular evolution. Château Le Puy takes up this tradition: some bottles of Barthélemy 2018 crossed the Atlantic a ship to the Caribbean, stopping for about a year the island of Barbados before returning to France.
From the comparison with the same vintage it emerges that the bottle that sailed across the ocean highlights a more harmonious and interesting organoleptic profile than the one left per the cellar: the fruit appears more relaxed, sweet spices, cocoa and liquorice emerge, echoes of saltiness that dance per total harmony with the other fragrant . Con the mouth the texture is smoother, deeper, with surprisingly silky tannin. The sip is satisfying, deep and well structured and closes persistently leaving a savory trail. The sensation is of greater integration, while maintaining freshness and identity, enriched by suggestive saline memories.
More than a simple tasting, Barthélemy’s vertical thus becomes a journey through time, space and the natural philosophy of Château Le Puy. Each vintage tells of a season, an agricultural choice, a different balance between nature and human intervention.
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