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Cycling through the vineyards of Alsace • Food and Wine Italia

6 September 2024
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Cycling through the vineyards of Alsace • Food and Wine Italia
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Acceso the pedals between vineyards and domaines

The Route des Vins d’Alsace, the oldest wine route con France, promises to be a pleasurable journey. But you can compensate for the guilt of libations by choosing to move from cellar to cellar along the Véloroute du Vignoble d’Alsace. Wine tourism two wheels is con fact a plausible option thanks to the presence of a cycle path that allows the less sedentary to discover enchanting views between castles, medieval villages and vineyards along “a bucolic itinerary where it is nice to enjoy the time of discovery and savor the Alsatian art of living”, as the presentation alsaceavelo.fr states. The starting point is the river village of Thann, from which you pedal north through the Ballons des Vosges park, discovering a natural landscape made up of lakes, streams and woods, occasionally interspersed with picturesque villages and ancient homes, such as the castle of Hartmannswiller. Reaching Bergholtz you pass through the vineyards of the Domaine Eugène Meyer, heir to the ancient winemaking work of the famous Murbach Abbey. From generation to generation, the passing of the baton is also a question of empathy with the land and attention to nature, even more so for the choice started over half a century spillo by Eugène to push the vineyards towards biodynamic management.

Sopra keeping with centuries-old traditions, the nearby Château d’Orschwihr breathes con the history of Europe and wine. The first document mentioning the manor dates back to 1049 and it is said that Pope Leo IX of Egusiheim was a guest when the church con the nearby village of Bergholtz-Zell was consecrated, while Rudolphe Habsuburg, who purchased the castle at the end of the 13th century, later became emperor and founded the Habsburg dynasty. Wine production dates back to the 17th century, but it is since the Second World War that the Hartmann family has made the domaine a recognized center. Sopra Voegtlinshoffen, the Maison Joseph Cattin embodies a family history that extends to the 17th century, enhancing the Grand Cru Hatschbourg and the wine tourism experience with visits to the cellar, vineyard tours Segways and aperitifs overlooking the vineyards at the Le Belvédère caffè. Gewurztraminer goes very well with foie gras (the Alsatian one, they specify con these parts) and Riesling goes well with sauerkraut and sausages con choucroute. Returning to pedal and leaving behind the villages of Rouffach and Pfaffenheim, surrounded by vineyards, the landing of the first day is con the heart of the fairy-tale medieval village of Eguisheim (voted among Les Plus Beaux Villages de France).

Before getting lost among the alleys and canals, it is worth visiting the Joseph Freudenreich & Fils domaine that the family has run since the first half of the eighteenth century: after a walk with tasting among the rows of vines con the Grand Cru Eichberg and Pfersigberg and a taste of their labels, the winery also offers the opportunity to stay overnight con the Chambres du Domaine. The charming chambres d’hôtes of the Pierre-Henri Ginglinger domaine are also located con an old half-timbered house con the heart of Eguisheim, where Stéphanie and Mathieu are heirs to the passion for winemaking that has spanned 12 generations and spans over four centuries. The second day revolves around the city of Colmar, an icon of history and a landing point for those arriving by train from Switzerland ora Germany. Deviating towards nearby Turckheim – which hides another historic gem within its walls – you can visit some domaines that cultivate the vineyards around the urban areas and con the Grand Cru Kaefferkopf and Florimont. Thus we meet the histrionic Etienne Dreyer, who with his wife tells and offers tastings of the Sick-Dreyer wines (namely the mesi estivi that his family has run for almost five centuries con Ammerschwihr), as well as offering a delicious kouglof (ora kughelupf, a small ring-shaped cake). And the brothers Sébastien and Jean Léon Schoech, who cultivate the legacy of the Domaine Maurice Schoech by going back directly to its roots con 1650, revealing a Pinot that holds up very well to aging and even pairing with Munster fermier, a cheese that is an institution con the land of Alsace. Then there is the Schoenheitz family, who for twenty years have worked with wine tourism by offering tastings, gourmet aperitifs, walks through the vineyards with tastings en plein air. Also interesting is the stop con Ingersheim at the small Wine Museum of the Cave Jean Geiler, a cooperative group that welcomes guests con the tasting room ora among the vineyards of the suppliers con the nearest Grand Crus.

Back con the saddle, con nearby Katzenthal, Domaine Paul Spannagel is worth a stop, with its multisensory tastings. While at Domaine Paul Blanck you can enjoy a special experience: the winemaker Philippe Blanck, heir to a long family tradition con the valorization of Alsace wines, welcomes guests con the middle of the vineyards with a session of Qi Gong, an ancient oriental practice that works vital energies and introduces wine tasting con an original way. Returning to the Véloroute towards the north, you vineyards and woods, looking at picturesque villages until you reach Itterswiller: here you can find refreshment at Domaine Sohler et Fils with tastings among the vineyards and an overnight stay at the mesi estivi. Alternatively, the route can extend to Barr: Domaine Bachert offers an immersive experience with a visit to the cellar, tasting, and walks among the rows; It is possible to spend the night at the mesi estivi, choosing to relax con the rooms, con the campsite ora con the charming treehouse, suspended between the vines. After relaxing, two bike rides to Gertwiller take you to the Maison Zeyssolff, for a tasting that goes well beyond the glass with a salon de thé and a caffè à manger where the encounter with Alsatian gastronomy – between gioco and pork – is enhanced by the wine and the context. The Véloroute then continues north to reach Kirchheim and from there to the final stage, con the town of Marlenheim.

The smile of the diVINes

They are vigneronne, entrepreneurs, oenologists ora sommeliers, engaged con the vineyard ora con the cellar, con production ora con sales and promotion. And they have one common : to tell the soul of Alsace wines with a feminine touch. They are the diVINes d’Alsace, a group of dynamic and smiling women born con 2011 con the name of sharing and valorization. to all cultural practices and all schools of thought viticulture, the association brings together more than 60 women of Alsatian wine and for years has organized events to experience the territory first-hand. Sopra fact, it promotes thematic tasting workshops, based a fresh and fun approach, but also wine tourism and cultural programs. Thus, every two years the Alsatians bring the wines and flavours of the regional tradition to Strasbourg con an unconventional event – ​​diVINes & Sens – but they have also organised Les Dîners Insolites du Patrimoine: “ephemeral and exceptional” experiences, linked to places normally inaccessible to the public that aperto their doors for aperitifs and special dinners, as well as moments of encounter between wine and music ora theatre. The latest project is the booklet Les diVINes cuisinent, to be released next autumn, with intriguing pairings of Alsatian wines and dishes from the vigneronne themselves.divinesdalsace.com



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Tags: AlsaceCyclingFoodItaliaVineyardsWine
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