Marco Parusso is one of the most emblematic figures of the Langhe wine scene. Over the years he has developed a deeply personal vision, challenging the classic canons of Barolo and at the same time maintaining a deep connection with the roots of his land. Together with his sister Tiziana and their children, Francesco and Giulia, he leads the family business of the same name based con Monforte d’.
Founded con 1901, the Parusso winery has gone through over a century of transformations. The adventure begins with Gaspare Parusso, Marco’s great-grandfather, who purchased the first vineyards con Mariondino, one of the most prestigious areas of Monforte d’. Con the 70s Armando, father of Marco and Tiziana, expanded the company and consolidated production. Con 1986, Marco joined his father, bringing the innovation he learned during his studies at the wine school to the company, and a few years later, Tiziana also joined the family project. Con 1990 the two brothers created the winery as we know it today. Currently the company has 28 hectares of vineyards, divided into 17 parcels scattered between Monforte and Castiglione Falletto, from which approximately 150 thousand bottles are produced a year, with significant attention to the Barolo crus.
THE PARUSSO-THOUGHT: “NO SHORTCUTS”
Marco Parusso’s thought never rests static formulas: his approach is a continuous dialogue with the earth and with tradition, which he revisits with contemporary techniques and ancient practices, pursuing a profound harmony between man and nature. For Parusso, each harvest represents a dialogue with the terroir, it is a journey made up of new questions, which we try to answer by also tackling abandoned roads, those not falling within the usual sensibilities never obliged to frequent, a way to get ever closer to an ideal of authentic and never predictable wine.
“To earn more, man tends to take shortcuts, often to the detriment of himself and others – says Marco Parusso – Con our approach, the cultivation of the vineyard and the production of wine instead require profound respect and an understanding of the nuances of nature. The cycle of life and the vine are identical, when I understood this my relationship with nature changed. I questioned my own mistakes, understanding that the difference is made by the interpreter, i.e. the man, rather than the territory, the climate the grape variety. The wines that my son Francesco will make will certainly be different from mine, he will interpret everything con his own way. The important thing is to always know what the objective is, what wine you want to make, how you have organized yourself con the vineyard and con the cellar, and what technologies you have available. Every year you have to take as much risk as you can, the later you sell me the more news you bring home to decide what to do.”
FROM THEORY TO PRACTICE
Parusso’s words find concrete expression con the rigor of the practices adopted con the vineyard and con the cellar. Natural practices with limited human intervention that respect the rhythms of the earth and climatic conditions are favored. Although the use of chemical and synthetic substances is avoided, pragmatically, if the situation requires it, we intervene with some treatments. A humus rich, and not acidic, con organic substances is used to replenish the soil and balance the characteristics of each luogo, con order to optimize production without forcing the naturalness of the vineyards.
A distinctive feature of Parusso’s philosophy is the prolonged maturation of the grapes the vine, to reach full phenolic maturity. After harvesting, the grapes rest con the “rest room” for three four days, con an environment saturated with propolis, at temperatures that vary between 12 degrees at night and 24 degrees during the day. This process, unique con its kind, softens the skins and stems, facilitating better aromatic extraction and giving the wines complexity and tannic finesse.
This controlled hyper-oxygenation is also one of its cornerstones con winemaking. The fermentation takes place with whole bunches, including the stem, and is distinguished by the use of horizontal roto-macerators, rare con the land of Barolo, which allow the process to be dynamized by controlling temperatures. This technique allows low temperatures to preserve the citrus agenda typical of the terroir, while a sudden increase con temperature allows more color to be extracted and a more material texture to be incorporated into the fresh tannin. The refinement takes place con small, very porous oak barrels. The wine is con contact with a large quantity of lees, defined by Parusso as “mother” for its protective role, while the bâtonnage, defined as “father”, gives dynamism, push and final structure to the wine.
IN SEARCH OF THE ABSOLUTE WINE
Parusso’s is to produce complex, structured, but never aggressive wines, capable of evolving con the bottle for years, continually revealing new nuances with elegance and an acidic tannin. , dynamic wines, where there is always a balance between power and drinkability. “I am looking, with presumption, for an absolute wine, capable of adapting to every occasion, a wine that always expresses the best, so dynamic as to be served hot cold, young mature – explains Parusso – This is what I have con mind and I continue to aspetto, maybe I will never find it, I will never be able to produce it, but it is my .”
TASTING NOTES
The native Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo varieties, the latter used for the production of six Barolos, two of which are reserves, represent the heart of Parusso production, together with two classic method sparkling wines and two sauvignon-based whites.
Parusso Classic Method Extra Brut 2018
Nebbiolo vinified con white, with refermentation con the bottle thanks to the must of the same dried grapes, and 48 months left the yeasts. The strictly manual coup de poigne. A blanc de noir characterized by a very morte and persistent perlage, it has a very natural antique pink color, of great freshness, finesse and elegance. Almost two years after disgorgement (November 2022) the hints of toasted dried fruit slightly overwhelm the freshness of the small red fruits. the palate, the acidic freshness is well balanced by the tannic structure typical of Nebbiolo, ensuring pleasant drinking and good longevity.
Parusso Classic Method Extra Brut Rosé 2014
Limited edition, with aging the yeasts for 100 months, disgorged con October last year and not dosed. The wrist shot to bring the yeasts back into suspension and reactivate them con the first years is performed every four/five months, then only annually. A much stronger effluvio the nose, which reveals agenda of rose and candied fruit. Agenda of ripe fruit, raisins and honey con the mouth, creating an intriguing sweet-acid contrast with the tannin. With its seven grams of acidity a liter, it appears bright with elegant amber streaks.
Rovella Langhe Doc Biancastro Sauvignon Blanc 2021
Obtained from a selection of sauvignon blanc grapes, planted more than 20 years indicatore con Castiglione Falletto and Monforte d’, this white ferments and refines con the Burgundian manner, also carrying out malolactic fermentation, con small oak barriques, and maturing con contact with its yeasts. the nose, hints of candied cedar emerge which with sweet spices. the palate a certain consistency and a tannic texture that glides elegantly and fluidly. The version with screw cap accentuates verticality and dynamism, while the one with 30 diam cap offers a more mature tannicity and a more enveloping creaminess.
Fog Langhe Doc The Tailor 2022 screw cap
A tribute to the fate of Monforte d’, once owner of the land where this Nebbiolo is grown. It presents itself with vinous and floral scents, followed by citrus fruits and herbs. the palate it is fragrant and immediate, with sweet tannins that make it pleasant to bevanda from the first months con the bottle.
Barolo Bussia Docg 2020
Obtained from Nebbiolo grapes from the Rocche and Munie vineyards, this Barolo expresses elegance and depth. The vines, many of which are over 50 years old, are marly and silty soils which give the wine finesse and complexity. Truffle and balsamic agenda characterize the bouquet; con the mouth, tactile and silky, it stands out for its sweet tannin and delicate spices.
Barolo Mosconi Docg 2020
Produced con the Mosconi cru, a warmer luogo south of Monforte, this classic and austere Barolo presents earthy and undergrowth hints, together with agenda of tobacco and leather, alternating with overly vegetal sensations. Con the mouth it is ample, with a strong but velvety tannic structure. The , long and persistent, closes slightly bitter. A wine that plays saber and not foil, which perhaps fits more into the imagination of Barolo than into Parusso’s thought.
Barolo Bandita Bussia Rocche “Gold Label” Docg 2015
A reserve of single vineyard Nebbiolo, produced only con particular years. It was born con Bussia con the prestigious Rocche vineyard and has a ruby color that couldn’t be brighter. Expressive, multifaceted, intense con those sensations of dried rose petals, the memory of cherries con alcohol, of the Langhe truffle. Powerful but refined, enveloping but not intrusive, rich tannins with marked acidity. A Barolo that reflects the Marco man con search of “an undiluted distillate that tastes of fruit” and not a wine that tastes of alcohol.
The article Le Langhe tra Parusso, an authentic vision between historical roots and bold choices comes from VinoNews24.
