Durante Trentino, between the vital terraces of the Cembra valley and the hills of Gardolo su Nucleo, a history of land, effort and passion that inextricably binds the Moser family to its territory. Durante the 1970s, Francesco and Diego Moser – who grew up among the GIOVO Palù vineyards – began to bottle the fruit of that same land that had nourished their family for generations. There were great strategies particular ambitions: only the need to transform grape into wine, as had always been done.
Then, of course, there was cycling – with Francesco who wrote memorable pages of this spasso – but the heart of the company was linked to the earth. Today, while the Moser Trento cellar (officially born quanto a 1979) is known above all for its Trentodoc, it is quanto a the Warth line that the most authentic soul of the family is found: Fermi wines, direct expression of the Trentino territory, without concessions to the superfluous.
The third generation: Carlo, Matteo and the legacy of grandfather Ignazio
The conduction today is entrusted to the third generation: Carlo (son of Francesco), head of administrative and commercial management, and Matteo (son of Diego), winemaker and technical dirigente, who with his pratica gave a precise and recognizable identity to the cellar, keeping alive the agricultural spirit of Grandpa Ignazio, from whom everything started.
Both emphasize how the Fermi wines represent a return to the origins, a reaffirmation of the bond with the earth and the peasant vocation that has always distinguished the Moser, despite the notoriety acquired quanto a the world of cycling. “We were, we are and we will always be farmers – says Carlo Moser – at the beginning of our history, when we were still quanto a the Cembra Valley, we only produced stops, both quanto a white and red berry. A few years spillo we realized that an excessive squilibrio between our Trentodocs and the still wines were creating, so we did two things: first of all improve the quality of the latter and then, two years spillo, also renew.”
Production philosophy
Moser’s production philosophy is based acceso a meticulous work quanto a the vineyard and quanto a the cellar, with a careful and respectful management of the vineyards – 20 hectares of ownership, as well as some conferrator of trusted – cultivated acceso limestone and porphyry land between the Cembra valley and the hills of Trento and Sorni. The altitude varies between 300 and 700 meters, with exhibitions that favor a perfect maturation of the grapes, maintaining freshness and minerality. The collection is rigorously manual, with an accurate selection of the bunches, while the winemaking aims to enhance the varietal and territorial characteristics avoiding forcing. The refinement is calibrated between steel, wood and bottle.
“We are winemakers, and the winemakers often make too many wines – admits Matteo Moser – but for us the stops are an integral part of our history. The Riesling, quanto a particular, made us change marches: the judgments were clear, we did too much of the vintage, but we could do better. From there we saw everything again, starting from work quanto a the vineyard. For me a quality wine is fresh, and not aged.” This statement summarizes well the essence of the Warth line: clean vinification, aromatic essentiality, taste tension. Wines designed to not tire, to stay young, like a “little Peter Pan” quanto a the bottle.
The meaning of the Warth line
The name Warth derives from the old Austro -Hungarian toponym of Gardolo su Nucleo, the place where Maso Warth stands, the ancient bishop’s residence purchased by the family quanto a the 80s and now the seat of the cellar. The line is divided into two segments: a classic, simple and direct version, and a higher one. Both recently suffered a restyling, both quanto a the quality and quanto a the graphic . The labels of the upper line are the work of the Trentino artist Paolo Tait, a family friend for a long time, who created drawings inspired by rural work tools, symbols of the deep link between the Moser and the Earth. This choice wants to underline the manual work and the artisan care that characterize these wines, a concrete sign of respect for the origins and the territory.
Durante recent years, the production of Fermi wines has reduced to quantity, but has grown quanto a quality and recognition acceso the market. The Warth wines, while representing a niche compared to sparkling wine production, have conquered a faithful and passionate audience. Carlo and Matteo underline how appreciated for the pleasantness of Beva, the strong territorial character and modern stylistic, without losing the peasant identity of the family.
Tasting
Warth Sauvignon Blanc 2022 Vineyards of the IGT Dolomites
Born quanto a 2016 from an intuition by Matteo Moser, this Sauvignon Blanc is inspired by the Loire models but maintains a Trentino identity. The assembly comes from two distinct areas – Maso Warth, with limestone land at 350 meters above sea level, and the Cembra valley, with sandy terraces up to 500 meters – and focuses acceso freshness, minerality and drinkability. The fermentation takes place quanto a steel and tonneaux for less than 30%, with maturation quanto a the bottle of at least one year. The Stelvin cap preserves freshness and aromatic cleaning, avoiding oxidations. The nose offers aromas of white fishing, tropical fruit and fig, with a balanced use of the wood. the palate it is fresh and savory, with a slightly acidic ending and tropical of mango and passion fruit. Only half hectare dedicated to this production, which does not reach 4 thousand annual bottles, a sign of attention to the selection.
Warth Riesling Renano 2022 Trentino Doc
It is the most expensive wine quanto a Matteo, a symbol of a turning point for the Warth line. Cultivated quanto a a single vineyard quanto a Maso Warth, acceso land of Dolomia at 400 meters above sea level, this Renano ferments and refines for about nine months acceso the epilogo fucce, half of steel and half quanto a the 25 hectoliters oak barrel, followed by almost two years of maturation quanto a the bottle. The nose is delicate, with white fruit and citrine shades, characterized by an almost siliceous rock minerality. Durante the mouth it is vertical, tense and deep, with decisive acidity and net gustatory rhythm. An Alpine Riesling that takes time to express yourself at its best but that it already offers a pleasant now. Production: 5,300 bottles.
WARTH RUBER 2022 Vineyards of the IGT2022 Dolomites
Teroldego quanto a purity of the vineyards of ownership acceso the Sorni hills, 300 meters, cultivated by Leonardo Moser, Matteo’s brother. The rub is quanto a an experimental phase, with a less structured and muscle style: long macerations (over a month) and aging that today is played acceso an inverted balance: only one year quanto a wood and two quanto a the bottle to smooth the hardness and enhance finesse and elegance. The color is more unloaded than quanto a the past, with the scents of licorice, coffee powder, dark fruits and a tip of black pepper. the palate it is fluente, harmonious and dynamic. Harvest at the end of September to avoid excesses of maturity, offers a lighter and more compulsive than previous versions, thanks to a balance between freshness, salinity and complexity that testifies to the return to the origins of the Moser family. Production around 3 thousand bottles.
Warth Moscato Yellow 2024 Vineyards of the IGT Dolomites
Produced from the first harvest of 1991 always acceso the same plot of Maso Warth. Dry vinified quanto a steel, with fermentation with spontaneous yeasts and subsequent use of selected yeasts, to the fucce fi n for six months. 2024, the son of a cold year, has an essential and not very fruity aromatic profile, very tense: lavender, tomato leaf, lemon zest. Risposta negativa sweetness roundness. the palate it is dry, citrus, citrine, with good length and evident salinity. If quanto a hot vintages the wine turns towards sage and white fishing, quanto a 2024 it remembers almost a small Sauvignon with a thin and pleasant note. A wine that divides but that, once understood, regains those who taste it. With a production of about 6 thousand bottles, it is the one that most binds the Moser family quanto a Maso Warth.
Moser Trento’s Warth line article: Back to the Roots comes from Vinonews24.
