OLTREPO’ – LAND of PINOT NOIR: one territory, one grape variety, two excellences (2024 – fourth edition)

Article by Monica Marcandelli.

The fourth edition of “OLTREPO’ – LAND of PINOT NERO: one territory, one grape variety, two excellences”, an event organized by the Protection Consortium, was held Monday 30 September 2024 at the Antica Saldezza Pegazzera per mezzo di Casteggio, per mezzo di the province of Pavia. Oltrepò Pavese wines with the aim of celebrating and promoting the collective brand. This year with many new features.

During the opening press conference Francesca Seralvo, newly appointed president (her election, unanimously, dates back to the month of March just past), spoke of an “unprecedented renewal” and a “profound change per mezzo di governance” for the Consortium , also referring to the appointment of the new director, Riccardo Cric (Iriense, former general director of the Consorzio Salvaguardia Vini Doc Bolgheri and Doc Bolgheri Sassicaia).

Both agree per mezzo di stating that “change”, per mezzo di Oltrepò, means definitively becoming aware of the potential of the territory and realizing its value, with the aim of making the territory a brand, a distinctive brand synonymous with ‘excellence’.

“Supply chain, quality, transparency” are the guidelines of the new course undertaken by the Consortium, for which a revision of the Statute is foreseen and which is already active per mezzo di the creation of a quality control for the wines produced per mezzo di Oltrepò which involves institutional bodies such as Fraud Repression and Valoritalia.

“Search for quality and not quantity”, to “recover a reputation”, hopes Alessandro Beduschi, Councilor for Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forestry of the Lombardy Region, from whom the Consortium will be able to have “full support” per mezzo di the project of “enhancement and of searching for the right market” for the OLTREPO’ brand.

A challenging project, which the 32 producers registered with the Consortium present at the event seem to have started working for some time, given the good average quality level detected for the wines tasted during the ‘walk around tasting’ and the two masterclasses, conducted with covered, focused respectively the Pinot Noir dell’Oltrepò Pavese Doc and the Oltrepò Pavese DocG Ordine Esemplare Pinot Noir, and well managed by Filippo Bartolotta (publicist journalist, teacher specialized per mezzo di the communication of wine and its territory, involved per mezzo di the “Oltrepò – tra Pinot Noir” since the first edition) and Valentina Vercelli (professional journalist, programma redattore of the Slowine guide, within which the number of awarded Pinot Noir from Oltrepò Pavese has constantly grown per mezzo di the last 15 years, underlines Valentina, with a peak never reached before for the 2025 edition of the guide).

Among the Classic Methods tasted, a mention for:

Oltrepò Pavese Ordine Esemplare DocG Pinot Da lutto Dosage Nullità 2019 “Vergomberra” by Verdi, savory, mineral, elegant, invigorating like a blast of sea breeze, surprising for the fullness of the sip, which reveals per mezzo di the – unexpectedly – ​​sweet of golden apple very crunchy, persuasive;

Oltrepò Pavese Classic Method DocG Pinot Da lutto Extra Brut sa “La Genisia” by La Genisia (winery owned by Torrevilla – Viticoltori Associati Fratellanza Agricola Cooperativa), ice-coloured, fresh the nose of citrus pulp and peel, among which the mapo stands out (hybrid between mandarin and grapefruit), reveals iodine nuances after the sip, which establish an elegant balance between smell and taste;

Oltrepò Pavese Classic Method DocG Pinot Da lutto Rosé “Cuvée Rosè” Pas Dosé Millesimato 2017 by Calatroni Vini, animated by a strong citrine note and a very intense tingling the tongue, a tactile manifestation of an evident savory and mineral component, which evolves towards pleasant oyster nuances and towards a satisfying salted caramel ;

Oltrepò Pavese Classic Method DocG Pinot Da lutto Rosé Cruasé “La Rosé” Millesimato 2020 by Cantine Cavallotti, inebriating with fresh of mandarin, after the sip, very tasty and full, it opens up to sweet nuances of strawberry and rose, which harmonize pleasantly with the long almond ;

Oltrepò Pavese Classic Method DocG Pinot Da lutto Rosé Brut “Cruasé” Millesimato 2017 by Quaquarini Francesco, capable of impressing with the essentiality of the light hints of fragrant bread crust and small red fruits detected the nose and the burst of an energetic, proudly characterized sip from the territory.

Among the still Pinot Noir vinified per mezzo di red tasted, a mention for:

Pinot Da lutto dell’Oltrepò Pavese Doc 2014 “Giorgio Odero” by Frecciarossa, transparent and characterized by warm brick-coloured nuances, per mezzo di perfect balance between hints of spices (nutmeg and black pepper), light vegetal veins (reminiscent of artichoke and the sweetness of the asparagus) and an intense note of ripe red orange, which manifests itself after the sip, characterized by a surprising freshness;

Pinot Da lutto dell’Oltrepò Pavese Doc 2019 “Altura della Buttinera” by Travaglino, at first glance marked by the small red fruits typical of the territorio, unexpectedly turns towards smoky , which remain after tasting together with a clear hint of ripe cherry, sweet and lively like the cherry per mezzo di the mustard, creating an unexpected, engaging, disconcerting effect;

Pinot Da lutto dell’Oltrepò Pavese Doc 2023 “Il Marcovaldo” by Finigeto, sweet the nose of wild strawberry and with barely perceptible vegetal nuances, savory the sip, striking for the balance between elegance and enjoyable liveliness;

Pinot Da lutto dell’Oltrepò Pavese Doc 2020 “Tavernetto” by Conte Vistarino, inebriating the nose with toasted and coffee , and with a barely perceptible alcoholic exhalation, surprising for the savory, full-bodied, consistent, ‘chewable’, vivid sip of black pepper, pleasantly stimulating.

The labels offered at the tasting table of “OLTREPO’ – LAND of PINOT NERO: one territory, one grape variety, two excellences” were 121 and those tasted and reported are just the tip of the iceberg.

It is therefore desirable, for next year, the possibility of being able to continue the exploration of a kaleidoscopic territory, rich per mezzo di a thousand facets, with the role of a cornerstone per mezzo di which the traditions and cultures of four administrative regions converge (Lombardy, Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna). Romagna and Liguria), and now fully involved per mezzo di a single shared project: the creation of the OLTREPO’ brand.

Article by Monica Marcandelli.