Salento isn’t normal Puglia. From the beautiful sea to remarkable landscapes to extraordinary Mediterranean food, Puglia has a matchless appeal. And this is obvious, offered the crowds of travelers who flock to its beaches every summertime.
Here’s a take a look at Salento, a little, popular location in southern Puglia situated in between Lecce and Brindisi, beginning in Sannicola, a little hamlet that’s home to Tenuta Mosè.
An inviting retreatUpon getting in Tenuta Mosè, an enforcing white plaster exterior partly hid in the shadows of palm trees welcomes us. It’s not a normal Apulian masseria (farmhouse-turned-accommodation), nor a hotel. The spaces, one linked to the other, surround a little green park, and the environment feels more like a big home. The trick, aromatic garden provides peace, rest, and wellness, combined with impressive service and Il Petrosino, a high-end dining establishment.
Inside Tenuta Moses, image: Alessandro Moggi
In the kitchen area, Angelo Motolese and Jennifer Bianchi, a young couple, prepare veggies and herbs from the garden behind the kitchen area, in addition to thoroughly chosen fish and meat. Angelo gravitates in between his Apulian origins (he’s from Grottaglie, Taranto) and his experience operating in dining establishments in Milan and London, including a modern style to conventional Apulian tastes. Jennifer, half Italian and half Uruguayan, merges her heritage and experience in Liguria with conventional Apulian meals. She prepares an Adriatic sea bream carpaccio with a lime marinade, onion, red pepper, peppers, and chili– an exceptional riff on South American ceviche. Meals that fall more on the conventional side consist of orecchiette alla leccese with tempting meatballs and a velvety, somewhat acidic ricotta from Salento.
Ceviche-style sea bream carpaccio at Il Petrosino, image: Alessandro Moggi
Anglers in Gallipoli This specific stretch of Salento is harsher than the rest of Puglia– parts are less simpler on the eyes due to architecture that, while it’s not precisely elegant, is captivating however. In Gallipoli, a popular ancient fishing town on the Ionian coast, an ancient bridge divides the city into 2 parts, linking the “mainland” to a sort of “head” that lodges historical center with its streets, ramparts, and beach. The view from the ramparts renders them a popular summertime aperitivo area.
Gallipoli, image: Alessandro Moggi
To explore its more artisanal/less fashionable side, we increase from the port and drop in the primary square’s fish market. Fishing boats are moored a couple of feet in the range and anglers provide samples of the catch of the day, such as the little and sweet gamberi viola di Gallipoli (purple shrimp of Gallipoli). We tasted them at the La Lampara dining establishment, run by owner Luigi Padovano and his household. Fish market, fish laboratory, dining establishment, whatever revolves newly captured fish– Padovano’s kid manages a 2nd, less rustic area in the streets of the historical center.
Luigi Padovano with purple prawns from Gallipoli, image: Alessandro Moggi
Not far from Gallipoli, continuing south along the coast, we come to Ugento-Torre San Giovanni, where sandy beaches with clear pristine water wait for. We stop at I Contadini, a farm that produces sun-dried veggies that are then salted by hand and protected. “This Salento location has a micro-ventilation that makes it distinct,” states Edoardo Trentin, who, in addition to his brother or sisters Emanuele and Gianna, owns the farm. “The Grecale and Scirocco sea winds impact the crops, providing them an individuality. This holds true of the capers, for instance, which my grandpa began growing here in Salento.”
Edoardo Trentin of I Contadini, image: Alessandro Moggi
He’s describing the Racale Caper, a forgotten range that was just recently restored, capturing the attention of Slow Food and Gambero Rosso guide, which in 2020 called it the very best caper in Italy. These capers have extreme scents of fragrant herbs and Mediterranean shrub and a specific crispy consistency.
At the crossroads of the seasWe continue strolling south towards the area where the Ionian and the Adriatic satisfy, stopping at Gagliano del Capo to find an artisan workshop concentrating on an olden practice. At Tessitura Giaquinto, Francesco and Cosimino continue the work of moms and dads and grandparents, developing materials from premium yarn. They’re weavers however likewise mechanics due to the fact that the looms are so ancient that you cut constantly source the parts required for their upkeep.
Fabrics at Tessitura Giaquinto, image: Alessandro Moggi
Their granny sketched a number of styles, eventually tape-recording numerous them. From table linens to towels to aprons to materials by the meter, it’s simple to get lost in the store. We remain dominated by the modular table linen, which can be extended by including sectors at will, thanks to buttonholes and buttons.
We come to the severe edge of Puglia, in Santa Maria di Leuca. After a check out to the basilica and the lighthouse, 102 meters (335 feet) above water level, then head down to Marina di Leuca and after that as much as Punta Mèliso, the border point in between the 2 seas, with pasticciotti in hand from Martinucci, a historical bakery.
Pasticciotti from Martinucci, image: Alessanro Moggi
The little NorthThe last stop is Alezio to check out Le Macàre (” sorcerer” in regional dialect). The “trattoria” has an ultra-modern visual with a practically Nordic style, a plain juxtaposition to the landscape: classy colors and shapes focus on the big square wood table. Owner Daniela Montinaro, among the creators, welcomes us.
Octopus Meatballs at Le Macàre, image: Alessandro Moggi
Daniela left her life as a homemaker behind to understand her long-lasting dream: owning a dining establishment. Her 3 kids deal with her today. Vincenzo and Francesco helm the kitchen area, and Stella manages the dining-room and likewise manages the red wines. The raw product is the topic of compulsive research study, particularly the oil, which even has a devoted menu. The meals are reviewed classics. “I’m not an integralist of the zero-kilometer approach. If I require to discover a component that’s not a regional specialized, I go to where I can discover a quality variation,” states Daniela with conviction. In the kitchen area, Vincenzo’s creativity stands front and center– he’s enthusiastic about street food and hamburgers, developing the Huge Macara hamburger with gorgonzola and smoked pancetta. However, for the sake of experimentation, he enjoys changing things up in the kitchen area.
Daniela Montinaro of Le Macàre dining establishment with her kids Vincenzo and Francesco, image: Alessandro Moggi
