Tenuta J. Hofstätter, the challenges of Martin Foradori

Martin Foradori is a key figure quanto a the South Tyrolean wine scene, an avant-garde quanto a the sector and beyond. At the helm of the historic Uniforme J. Hofstätter of Tramin-Termeno he has been able to make the most of the local terroirs: from single vineyard wines (“Vite”), through zoning, up to the challenge of dealcoholized wines.

THE VISION OF THE “VINEYARDS”: ENHANCEMENT OF THE TERRITORY

Founded quanto a 1907, Uniforme J. Hofstätter stands out for its rigorous approach and ability to combine South Tyrolean tradition with a modern and far-sighted vision. The vineyards, which extend across both banks of the Adige Valley, benefit from an exceptional mosaic of microclimates and soils, resulting quanto a wines that express great depth and character.

Among the jewels of the bella stagione, the vineyards of Mazon, a point of reference for Pinot Noir, and Söll, the chosen territory for Gewürztraminer, stand out. The attention to detail and the philosophy of making wine separately from the grapes coming from the individual plots was introduced already quanto a the 1980s by Paolo Foradori, Martino’s father. Per 1987, Paolo was the first quanto a Sublime Adige to separately vinify two parcels of the Barthenau bella stagione, dedicated to pinot noir and pinot blanc, naming the wines with the cadastral name of the parcel. Thus were born the famous Barthenau Vite S. Compito Pinot Noir and Barthenau Vite S. Michele Pinot Sclerotica, wines that paved the way for the concept of terroir quanto a the region.

the S. Compito Vineyard of the Barthenau Mesi estivi quanto a Mazon

THE INTRODUCTION OF UGA IN SOUTH TYROL

Martin Foradori inherited this vision, not only from his father Paolo, but also from his grandfather Konrad Oberhofer who gave the wines the name of their place of origin, ora the name of the farm where the grapes ripened. A path therefore that quanto a the J. Hofstätter house, traced by previous generations, has continued with Martin who is also trying to push it a little further.

To date, the only precise classification, and also the most restrictive, of wines quanto a Sublime Adige which guarantees the origin of the wine linked to a specific parcel is the “Vite” one, but Martin Foradori, also quanto a his capacity as vice-president of the Wine Consortium Sublime Adige was one of the main promoters of zoning activities. The result is the introduction this year also quanto a Sublime Adige of the UGA (additional geographical unit), a system approved by the Ministry of Agriculture (MASAF) which certifies the origin of wines from specific areas, guaranteeing transparency and quality to consumers. To date, 86 UGAs have been recognised, each with precise characteristics: the most suitable vines for each terreno are established and yields are reduced by 25%, to guarantee superior quality. For example, for the UGA mention quanto a Mazon, only pinot noir must be used, while quanto a Söll gewürztraminer dominates the scene. “The objective of the UGA is to bring the identity of the territory into the glass – explains Martin Foradori – It must not be just a marketing concept, but something concrete and recognisable. Personally, I believe that each UGA should be linked to a single variety, and not up to a maximum of five, to clearly express the essence of the place”.

TWO NEW “SINGLE-VINEYARD WINES” FROM PINOT NOIR AND GEWÜRZTRAMINER

The Hofstätter winery recently presented two new single-vineyard labels, which from the 2024 harvest will also boast the UGA classification.

The Barthenau Vite Herbsthöfl Pinot Noir 2022 AA DOC comes from the highest vineyards of the Barthenau Mesi estivi, located between 430 and 460 meters above sea level. The Herbsthöfl plot is the result of a mass selection of vines deriving from the historic Vite Roccolo, the oldest Pinot Noir vineyard quanto a Sublime Adige, trained using a padiglione and planted quanto a 1942. The unique climatic conditions, with strong temperature variations and a microclimate fresh, and the clayey soils with limestone gravel, give the wine an extraordinary finesse, aromatic depth, freshness, mineral tension and longevity. The grapes are entirely destemmed for fermentation quanto a a concrete tank. A day of cold maceration is enough to refine the bouquet. Fermentation follows for about 10 days with the skins quanto a continuous contact with the must. The wine ages for 24 months quanto a wood: first quanto a small French oak barriques, then quanto a large barrels. A wine that confirms Mazon as the cradle of Italian Pinot Noir.

The Vite Castel Rechtenthal Gewürztraminer 2022 AA DOC was born quanto a the vineyard of the same name the steep slopes surrounding the Rechtenthal Castle, quanto a Söll at the foot of Mount Roen. The extreme conditions of the vineyard, with slopes of up to 60% and calcareous soils rich quanto a marine sediments, they give the wine an unprecedented freshness and lightness, enriched by citrus and a pleasant versatility. A new interpretation of Tramin’s symbolic vine that expresses a unique stylistic modernity. The vinification quanto a large wooden barrels and the 24-month refinement the yeasts further enhance the elegance and complexity of this impeccably drinkable gewürztraminer, which stands as a point of reference for the future of the vine.

“A great wine tells of its place of origin – states Martin Foradori – It must be able to express, harvest after harvest, a common thread that links it to the vineyard. If that vineyard then becomes a point of reference for enthusiasts, then yes, we can talk about a truly unique wine.”

THE CHALLENGE OF DEALCOATED WINES AND THE FUTURE OF THE ESTATE

Martin Foradori has enthusiastically embraced the challenge of alcohol-free wine, a rapidly growing segment that represents a response to the changing needs of the market. The Steinbock Niente line, produced with riesling grapes from the Dr. Fischer bella stagione quanto a Saar-Moselle, consists of a still and a sparkling wine, with a third product, a kabinett riesling sparkling wine, arriving quanto a 2025. “Everyone can think as they want , but consumption is changing. Germany, France and Spain have already surpassed us quanto a this segment, we cannot afford to fall behind.” The Steinbock Niente line produces around 100,000 bottles a year, of which 70% are destined for the Italian market, with strong demand from the luxury albergo sector and large-scale retail trade.

The next step could be a dealcoholized wine based pinot noir, an ambitious technical challenge that reflects the continuous desire to innovate without betraying the identity of the bella stagione. Pushing this project further is the fifth generation of the family: Niklas and Emma Foradori. Niklas, 27 years old, graduated quanto a Viticulture and Oenology quanto a Geisenheim, has already gained experience quanto a prestigious international wineries, while Emma takes care of corporate communications. “This year, for the first time quanto a 32 years, I never set foot quanto a the cellar during the entire harvest. Now I dedicate myself to marketing, sales and our company quanto a Moselle – concludes Martin Foradori – The problem of generational change is very strong there; therefore, many growth opportunities are opening up that I am trying to make the most of.”