Lovers who approached white wine twenty years ago experienced a Sicily that was very various from that these days. Estimating, however not excessive, is that of the effective pattern of nero d’Avola, additionally in its more significant, extreme and extractive variations, and of the fantastic brand names of the island which cheerfully used flagship white wines based upon chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon. The “continent” of Sicily, or rather the warm and extravagant design that had actually made it emerge on a nationwide and global level, revealed some creaks when the name Etna started to bounce around ever more highly. Not just a brand-new area, a minimum of in its modern guise (we are still speaking about the 2nd Sicilian DOC after Marsala, developed in 1968), however a paradigm opposite to the dominant one which has actually required the island’s white wine to reconsider itself, beginning a virtuous procedure of stylistic advancement. Concentrating around the volcano, it needs to be stated that virtually all the huge names in the area have actually bought the location (from Planeta to Tasca d’Almerita, from Donnafugata to Cottanera as much as Firriato), following the success of immigrants.
Yet, even before Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro), Marc De Grazia (Tenuta delle Terre Nere) and Frank Cornelissen, all of whom originated from afar and were related to the very first and definitive wave for the rediscovery of Etna (around 2000), there was currently (or still) some regional truth and an astonishing success story. We are clearly speaking about the Benantis, who established their own winery in 1988, and about Pietra Marina white wine. This white from Carricante grapes will mark a few of the definitive phases for the relaunch of contemporary Etna, of the truth that created it and of a young regional wine maker who will turn into one of the most inspired characters of the “Muntagna”: Salvo Foti, today lead character with the I Vigneri business.
A gewurztraminer, we were stating. Not a little information that requires us to consider the course of occasions. There is no doubt that because the early 2000s it has actually been the Nerello Mascalese-based reds that have actually made the cover. In reality, these white wines surprise for their skill, in addition to for their capability to stimulate the volcanic terroir and a particular concept of” stylish” Mediterranean design. And today? In addition to the numbers, which inform of a still extremely vibrant area, there is a return of flame for gewurztraminers. Not an outright novelty, as shown by the Pietra Marina case and some duration readings. Like this one from Mario Soldati: “The reds of Etna are less appropriate than their white equivalents exactly since that taste of fire appears to have actually gone too far into it. White individuals, on the other hand, have actually filtered it, minimized it to a shadow, to a suspicion, to an extremely minor acrid streak that can not however resemble”.
Numerous things have actually altered because the fall of 1968, when Soldati composed these sentences, however the reflection is definitely alluring and links to a present in which gewurztraminers appear to be in the quick lane once again. In reality, lots of Carricante-based analyses impress with their creativity, class and durability, while in many cases the reds have actually stood the test of time. It needs to be stated that we are still at the start and it is early to make conclusive evaluations, likewise by virtue of the development in awareness of the leaders and the look of lots of brand-new interpreters on the scene (consisting of numerous oenologists from other areas: Paolo Caciorgna and Nicola Berti, Carlo Ferrini, Federico Curtaz, Emiliano Falsini, among others).
Plus, who stated that a tasty red in the very first 6-10 years of life isn’t currently something we frantically require? As we see it, the whites and reds of Etna are 2 remarkable sides of the very same coin, which likewise require us to perform a progressively extensive territorial examination. The various locations of the denomination appear to be made particularly to improve the grapes, the white wines, the stylistic and interpretative declinations, offering lovers with a kaleidoscope of colours, scents and flavours. The Contrade task boosts and integrates this tremendous heritage and its severe irregularity, with 133 Extra Geographical Systems (Uga) that support the 4 sides of the volcano (North, East, South-East, South-West), offering a listening polyphonic of its white wines.
The volcano in numbers.
With fantastic strides, the area of Etna is being repopulated with vineyards and cellars. Nothing brand-new, considered that we are speaking about a location that is traditionally matched and extremely essential in the Sicilian wine-making map, which nevertheless had practically entirely dissipated the heritage of the past and seen the variety of bottling business minimized to a handful. An amazing reality if you think about that in 1848 practically 26 thousand hectares of vineyards were cultivated and in between 1880 and 1885 Catania was the Sicilian province with the most vineyards, with 90 thousand hectares of vineyards. It was the arrival of phylloxera at the start of the twentieth century that started a decrease that appeared permanent, likewise due to the regular eruptions. The contemporary “reconquest” of the volcano is there for all to see, with a really remarkable birth rate and emerging truths. The numbers promote themselves: in 2022 the denomination reached 1,290.82 hectares of vines and 442 wine makers. The bottles produced rather reached 5,820,145, compared to the million and a half ten years back. With 23,365 hectoliters the Etna Rosso type is the most essential in quantitative terms within the denomination, to which 146 hectoliters of Etna Rosso Riserva are included. Following are the types Etna Bianco (14,366), Etna Rosato (3,880 hectolitres), Etna Spumante Bianco (792 hectolitres), Etna Bianco Superiore (746 hectolitres) and Etna Spumante Rosato (353 hectolitres).
Etna Days in 10 tastings.
The Etna Days represented a powerful upgrade window on the volcano’s white wines. Reconnaissance, nevertheless, is difficult, thinking about the a great deal of brand-new truths which always make the mapping short-term and a steady hierarchy. The picked white wines are for that reason inadequate to draw an extensive photo however represent recommendations dispersed throughout various sides, in between combined wineries and brand-new emerging truths. Likewise concerning the types within the DOC, we have actually picked to bring back a balance in between white and red white wines. Not by style or by predisposition, however by having actually taped intriguing concepts on both sides of Etna white wine in the “field”.
GRACI ETNA BIANCO 2022Located in the Passopisciaro location, Graci is amongst the lead characters of the current success of Etna white wines. The vineyards lie in between 600 and 1,000 meters above water level, while the grapes grown are Nerello Mascalese, Carricante and Catarratto. The last 2 (85% – 15%) comprise a sexy and crystalline Etna Bianco, as tense as it is pleasing and with important citrus tips.
IUPPA ETNA BIANCO SUPERIORE LAVI 2022Milo is the most distinguished location for gewurztraminers (the just one in which the “Superiore” variation can be produced). In the Salice district, Iuppa produces Lavi which in this variation has fun with happily oxidative experiences on the nose (ripe fruit, candied citrus fruits, camphor) while the sip is still sharp, nevertheless yummy and yummy.
MAUGERI ETNA BIANCO SUPERIORE FRONTEMARE 2022The business is now a recommendation for fantastic gewurztraminers, thanks to the quality and a design efficient in stimulating Burgundian experiences. The Frontemare which originates from Carricante grapes grown at 700 meters above water level, ferments in tonneaux and has a remarkable sophistication from extremely fresh and citrus notes to other sweeter ones, of butter and great spices.
BIONDI ETNA BIANCO OUTIS 2021This white wine originates from the grapes of Vigna Chianta in Contrada Ronzini. The Carricante, Cataratto and Minnella ranges are grown in saplings while the vinification happens solely in steel. The outcome is an intense and genuine white, extremely fresh in the scents of wild herbs, white melon and bergamot. The taste is intense and juicy, vibrant and tense.
NICOSIA ETNA ROSSO CONTRADA MONTE GORNA 2021The grapes for this white wine originated from Contarda Monte Gorna, over 700 meters above water level. Half of the juice grows in steel, while the rest passes from barriques to big barrels. Low in color, it has scents of roots (gentian, in specific), extremely initial and fresh, while the mouth is flamboyant and extremely vertical.
TENUTA DI FESSINA ETNA ROSSO ERSE 2021 Fessina was born in 2007 by the hand of the extraordinary Silvia Maestrelli. Having actually ended up being maybe more popular for the white lei than lei A ‘Puddara, she can aromatic and juicy red white wines. Amongst these is the Etna Rosso Erse (nerello mascalese and cap, minnella, carricante, in reducing amounts), fragile and running, flower and mouthwatering.
GIROLAMO RUSSO ETNA ROSSO A’ RINA 2021The credit for the rightful popularity of this winery goes to Giuseppe Russo, a pianist-winemaker who got the household vineyards back on track and began a remarkable journey. Amongst the lots of effective labels, the entry red A’ Rina is noteworthy, additionally with the impalpable lightness of the very best expressions of this location.
QUANTICO ETNA ROSSO 2021The Raiti household handles some vineyards in Linguaglossa. This red white wine based upon Nerello Mascalese ferments with the skins for 10 days; for that reason maturation happens for over a year in utilized steel, barriques and tonneaux. Delicious and distinct white wine, with fruity tones that cross those of roots and fade into smoky tips.
MECORI ETNA ROSSO 2021 A brand name brand-new truth that is preparing to fly, a minimum of evaluating from the couple of tastings made from the very first white wines. In specific, Etna Rosso ’21 appeared to embody an ideal and sexy design, made from taste without frills. The little berries are stabilized by balsamic and mineral tones, in a smooth and elegant sip that is strong and warm.
TASCANTE ETNA ROSSO SCIARANUOVA VV 2017 Amongst the big Sicilian business that have actually bought Etna, Tasca d’Almerita appears to have actually discovered the secret key to making fantastic white wines. The Tascante task is remarkable from every perspective. From the old vineyards of the Clos of Contrada Sciaranuova, this white wine is born, unexpected for its skill, strength of taste, gustatory characteristics and balance. A champ.
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