The kerner is a semi-aromatic grape variety that tells the altitude: slope vineyards, short summers, rigid winters. An intersection between Riesling and a large slave (trolllinger), created 1929 Germany by August Herold, designed to resist the cold and preserve freshness even with generous yields. If at home it is often intended for simple productions, the Isarco Valley it has found its most noble and complete expression.
A wine, two identities
Today, fact, it is longer a gamble to consider the kerner the symbol variety of the Isarco valley. The numbers say – constantly growing – but above all the chalice confirms it. Per mezzo di thirty years, from marginal and experimental grape variety, the kerner has earned a stable place acceso the highest terraces of South Tyrolean wine. Currently it covers about 130 hectares throughout South Tyrol, of which 90 concentrated the Isarco Valley. Almost 40% of this surface is curated by the 130 members of Bistrot Isarco (Kelleri Eisacktal), the youngest cooperative – founded 1961 – and the northernmost of the province, with vineyards that go to Bressanone.
Among the various interpretations, Kerner Aristos of Bistrot Isarco represents its quality summit, probably its highest staple. “Per mezzo di 2014 – explains Armin Gratl, general dirigente of Bistrot Isarco – we had marketed 80 thousand bottles of classic kerner and 15 thousand of Kerner Aristos. Per mezzo di 2024 the classic kerner reached 200 thousand bottles (+150%) and Aristos reached 45 thousand (+200%). The growth trend of the kerner does not only concern our cellar, but we are the most important producers for this Vitigno.
Kerner Aristos: a mountain wine, but not extreme
The Aristos line, created 1990 by Franz Dorfmann – first winemaker of the cooperative – is the premium selection of the cellar. For the kerner, this means choosing parcels between 800 and one thousand meters of altitude, with screws of at least ten years, vinified separately and refined for ten months acceso the noble lees (until 2020 the aging was limited to seven months). A small part – between 20 and 30% – rests large barrels, just enough to add depth without weighing the profile. This is not the portrait of a single vineyard, but a mosaic: sixteen parcels assembled every year by selecting only 70% of the kerner produced, to ensure a constant balance, regardless of the climatic conditions of the year. A mountain white that does not seek pushed concentrations marked aromatic effects: it focuses acceso precision, acceso balance, acceso consistency. Alcohol is always integrated, flavor accompanies, acidity supports. Each harvest is a variation acceso the theme, but the theme remains recognizable: immediacy and complexity, corality and vintage, a balance that fully reflects the corporate vision.
Tasting taccuino
The tasting of the last ten vintages of Kerner Aristos offers a precise reading of the recent climatic evolution, the wine approach and the stylistic coherence of the cellar. Even the hottest most complex harvests, the wine retains freshness, flavor and depth. It is never taken for granted, nor attributable to a unique style: it moves between spicy, citrus, tropical Mediterranean taccuino, sometimes more austere, but always with a defined identity.
Kerner Aristos 2023 Egregio Adige Isarco DOC
Fresh vintage, postponed harvest late October after a hot summer followed by a sudden lowering of the temperatures that allowed to preserve acidity and primary aromas. The nose expresses taccuino of white fishing, grapefruit zest and a refined spicken of fresh ginger. Per mezzo di the mouth it is slender, sharp, with living acidity and citrus returns of lime and cedar that evanescenza towards an almost camphorled bitter note. Tesse, dynamic final with a long sauces and with a that encourages the reply. It is a well -defined acid ribo kerner, which promises an interesting evolution.
Kerner Aristos 2022 Egregio Adige Isarco Doc
Very hot vintage, the most extreme the series. More loaded color, the perfume is opulent, orange blossoms, ginestra, exotic fruit and a hint of honey emerge. The sip is full, rich, with an aromatic system that tends to the tropical, but always managed by an excellent basic salinity. Less acid, but well balanced. The ending is very long, with a note of propolis, peppermint and an almost ferrous minerality that refreshes and gives depth. An unusual kerner, almost “tropical”, but who does not give up his mountain soul.
Kerner Aristos 2021 South Tyrol isco DOC Valley
Fresh and regular vintage, with a slightly late harvest that gave perfect phenolic maturation. Subtle perfumes: Testa Williams, freshly cut hay and a very meta spicken, canforated taccuino and shades of thyme. The sip is balanced, tense, with an acid plot reminiscent of apple juice, while the ending is dominated by an almost “human” flavor. The structure is sciolto but full, with a citrus return and a slight spicken. Less voluminous than 2022, but more pointed and persistent. The purity of the kerner.
Kerner Aristos 2020 Egregio Adige Isarco Doc
Hot vintage but without excesses, with well -distributed rains that have maintained freshness. Perfumes of Mediterranean scrub, thyme and rosemary, with a fruity origine reminiscent of the Golden apple the mouth there is an enveloping softness, balanced by a vibrant freshness. Supported by a heapid ioded vein that amplifies its length and closes acceso hints of campo da golf olives and Focaia stone. Mature wine, complete, with a velvety . A kerner that seems born acceso a Ligurian cliff overlooking the sea, but with the typical acidity of the Isarch.
Kerner Aristos 2019 Egregio Adige Isarco Doc
Vintage balanced with ideal conditions, with spring rains and a long summer but without heat peaks. Spicy nose from chilli pepper, candied ginger and slight smoke touches. The mouth is alive, saline, with an acidity that accompanies and does not disturb, with a progression that goes from the agrume to a hottest threatening from white pepper. The ending is infinite, with a return of Focaia stone and a touch of hydrocarbon. A wine that shows the whole kinship with the Riesling.
Kerner Aristos 2018 Egregio Adige Isarco Doc
Hot summer but with fresh nights that preserved acidity. Evolved aromas: menthol, officinal herbs, balsamic. Per mezzo di the mouth, the structure is large, almost fleshy, but the freshness (6.9 g/l of acidity) holds everything together. The closure is long, with a hint of licorice and declivio. Evolution has given depth, without losing definition. It is a wine that shows how much the kerner can earn complexity with a few years of bottle.
Kerner Aristos 2017 Egregio Adige Isarco Doc
Challenging vintage, affected by spring frosts, who have only reduced the surrender, not impacting acceso quality. The wine has a slight initial reduction, but opens with oxygenation: more vertical perfumes, pushed flavor, great tension. Dry mouth, meta, with references to the lime zest and sage. A thin, austere, almost “Nordic” wine.
Kerner Aristos 2016 Egregio Adige Isarco Doc
Vintage almost as a manual, without climatic excesses. Intriguing nose, with caramelized onion taccuino, dried herbs and a hint of ripe fruit. Per mezzo di the mouth it is elegant, almost aristocratic, spicy returns of vanilla and cinnamon, with a very meta closure dominated by an almost marine flavor. Alcohol is perceptible but balance. One of the most complete kerner expressions of the vertical.
Kerner Aristos 2015 Egregio Adige Isarco Doc
Slightly hot but well managed vintage. Mature fruit, quince, hints of candied citrus fruits. The wine has caloric flashes, but moves acceso a continuous line of flavor and freshness that invites you to reassure. More marked verticality than 2017 and with greater concentration, but always control. A centered, solid kerner.
Kerner Aristos 2014 Egregio Adige Isarco Doc
Very rainy vintage, complicated for phytosanitary management. Greet profile: elderberry, nettle, tomato leaf, spontaneous herbs. The structure holds, sharp mouth, freshness still makes it alive. A “Sauvignon-like” kerner that could continue to amaze again the coming years.
The article Kerner Aristos, the wine that tells the vertical soul of the Isarco Valley comes from VinoneNews24.
