Vertical tasting of Fattoria di Grignano’s Poggio Gualtieri, which with the go back to pure Sangiovese narrates of area in white wine.
Rùfina is the only Chianti DOCG that can appropriately be specified as “Apennine”. And a see to the cellars can verify how it has an indisputable creativity to provide.
The landscape is halved by the Screen, the biggest of the Arno’s tributaries. Spread all over and thick, the woods with their breath cover the hills and color them in a gradient of dark yellows. There are 5 towns, all in the province of Florence, in which this historical denomination is divided: coming down from the Apennines into the valley, Dicomano, Londa, Rùfina, Pelago and Pontassieve, the latter being the only one whose area is totally consisted of in the location of 12,500 hectares. And it remains in Pontassieve that the Fattoria di Grignano lies, owned by the Inghirami household.
” Everything started in 1949– discusses Tommaso Inghirami– when my grandpa Fabio, after understanding that he didn’t like the practice of the legal occupation excessive, established a laboratory coat business which had terrific success. So in the Seventies he got the farm and began a job to redevelop and boost the 600 hectares of land that comprises the estate, 50 of which are planted with vineyards”.
Tommaso Inghirami, 3rd generation at the helm of Fattoria di Grignano
LAND OF STONE AND WATER In the Chianti Rùfina location, the focus has actually constantly been on Sangiovese which, a pure-blooded grape that it is, has actually repaid this trust by transfiguring it into initial declinations with an uncommon and valuable focus on flower tones of terrific vastness that make it apparent.
From a geological viewpoint, the territorial analysis is not made complex. Components that provide character to Rùfina white wines are the Apennine stone called Tuscan stone or a layer of difficult sandstone, marl and the whitish limestone rock called Alberese. The sun direct exposure to the South, South-East on surfaces approximately 550 meters above water level and the microclimate with cool summer season nights add to preserving the fragrant notes and establishing strong level of acidity.
” We remain in a location with numerous rocks and great deals of water– includes the young Inghirami– Here on the estate we likewise have 12 springs. The Rufina side remains in truth a pleased location likewise and above all for this factor. It’s not something to be considered approved.”
the vineyards of Fattoria di Grignano
THE AREA IN white wine The viewpoint underlying the work of Tommaso, designer of a brand-new business offer for a couple of years, is revealed in the word regard, for the past and likewise for the current history, for the area and above all for all ladies and the guys who have actually constantly dealt with enthusiasm and commitment.
” The very first thing I did– he states– was comprehend where I had actually gotten here. My household has actually had the estate for 50 years however it was essential for me to comprehend what Grignano is, what the soul of the business was. I am fortunate sufficient to have individuals who have actually constantly worked here therefore I interviewed them to comprehend the location. I likewise attempted to comprehend the taste that individuals were trying to find in Sangiovese white wines. With vinsanto, I began try out the woods that remain in Grignano, from the Tuscan forest: given that 2018 I began making the partridge’s eye with Tuscan woods. This is my instructions, making white wines that age in wood from our area.”
Chianti Rùfina has actually been bottled in the business given that completion of the seventies when Fabio Inghirami, depending on the oenologist Franco Bernabei, structured Grignano by concentrating on the valorisation of the area and its native vines. Then thanks to the brand-new tastes of the marketplace, with the subsequent wine making assistance of Barbara Tamburini, Sangiovese started to be combined with little portions of softer French-style vines. We then go back to taking a look at custom with the arrival of a brand-new wine maker, Stefano Chioccioli, and, soon after, Tommaso Inghirami.
POGGIO GUALTIERI VERTICAL The vertical tasting of the historical Poggio Gualtieri label is a cross-section of 25 years of Sangiovese. “Poggio Gualtieri– discusses Tommaso– is a vineyard situated not far from the cellar at around 350/380 meters above water level, covering 8 hectares, all Sangiovese however with various typical ages. There are basically 3 particles: one we call Fratello nuova, about 25 years of ages, another, Montefiesole, who is 35 years of ages and a last one called Romagnoli who has to do with twenty years of ages. It has actually constantly been our flagship reserve”.
For that reason a vineyard story, which can be informed in 6 years. A story in the glass, returning in time, to much better value the evolutionary abilities of Sangiovese.
Poggio Gualtieri 1997 (Bernabei wine maker) Grapes: 100% Sangiovese Vinification: in cement tanks, malolactic in cement Aging: in big oak barrels
” 1997– states Tommaso– is the very first year in which Franco Bernabei with my dad Giovanni and the then farmer chose to boost the Sangiovese by producing the Riserva. It was an essential harvest and Franco wished to attempt really sluggish vinification along with the extraction of color. It was the vintage that began the entire “essential harvest” job. Sophisticated garnet, with orange subtleties. The sense of odor is made up and fragile: a crescendo of dried flowers, undergrowth, dried mushrooms, macerated red fruit. Unified tasting, the mouth fills with tasty returns and tips of spices. A sensible beverage, without drool.
Poggio Gualtieri 2001 (Bernabei wine maker) Grapes: 100% Sangiovese Vinification: in cement tanks, malolactic in cement Aging: in big oak barrels
Brilliant garnet, it opens gradually with tips of candied orange peel, red plum, pink pepper and cinnamon, balsamic gusts and slate. Chiseled tannins balance with level of acidity and alcohol providing a fantastic drinkability.
Poggio Gualtieri 2008 (Bernabei wine maker) Grapes: 100% Sangiovese Vinification: in steel, malolactic in cement Aging; in 18 hl oak barrels and 2nd and 3rd passage barriques
Garnet red, it opens with tips of chinotto, turmeric, liquorice which fade into balsamic traces. Delicious and extreme sip in which all the aspects integrate completely. Determination of liquorice and black fruit in jam.
Poggio Gualtieri 2013 (tamburini wine maker) Grapes: 90% sangiovese and 10% red wine Vinification: in steel, malolactic in cement Aging; in 18 hl oak barrels and 2nd and 3rd passage barriques
Brilliant ruby with garnet subtleties. It displays a potpourri of green pepper, cinnamon, red flowers, tobacco followed by ripe red fruit. The entry into the mouth is complete, the tannins are wonderfully incorporated into the structure. Pleasing epilogue with orange scents and balsamic essences.
Poggio Gualtieri 2015 (enologist Chioccioli) Grapes: 100% Sangiovese Vinification: in steel, malolactic in cement Aging: in 18 hl French oak barrels and 2nd and 3rd passage barriques
” This harvest– discusses Tommaso– was fascinating from a qualitative, not quantitative, viewpoint. Our yields are constantly really low, when we are fortunate, we reach 40 quintals per hectare. When it comes to 2015, 20 quintals per hectare. However in any case we selected of the grapes to constantly have quality. From a weather viewpoint, typical temperature levels.” Ruby red with garnet reflections, a spicy opening blazes a trail to lavender, red increased, mace and pink pepper. Taste entry with a sophisticated and a little austere character made from tannins well combined with freshness and soft experiences. The olfactory scents return undamaged and fade into the tasty surface with a long spicy determination.
Poggio Gualtieri 2018 (wine maker Chioccioli) Grapes: 100% Sangiovese Vinification: in steel, malolactic in cement Aging: in 18 hl French oak barrels
” It’s my very first harvest– exposes Inghirami– I in fact began this experience in 2018. The viewpoint of the quality of the grapes over the last 25 years was likewise really essential: we collected in the 3rd week of September and we preserved the to make Bernabei design white wine with sluggish color extraction. 2018 has my individual impact in desiring to bring Sangiovese to its creativity”. Brilliant ruby color, it is clear on the nose: cherry, red currant with flower tips, it is enhanced by exactly highlighting orange peel and increased. It has thick tannins which forecast it towards a long development in the bottle.
The short article Fattoria di Grignano or how to control time originates from VinoNews24.
