The soul of Irpinia in Fonzone wines

On a hill of around thirty hectares, in the countryside of Paternopoli, in the province of Avellino, within the Taurasi DOCG, stands a winery that controls a landscape marked by Aglianico, Falanghina, Fiano d’Avellino and Greco di Tufo vineyards. We remain in the heart of Irpinia and it is here that the Fonzone Caccese household has actually picked to understand their dream: cultivating native ranges to produce 8 red wines that inform the story of the area in the glass.

Established in 2005 by Lorenzo Fonzone Caccese, a cosmetic surgeon with an enthusiasm for red wine, it has actually seen the brand-new generation – represented by his kids and their other halves – use up the baton. “We are a big household unified by a typical dream– states Silvia Campagnuolo Fonzone– that of making red wines efficient in informing the story of Irpinia and its remarkable vines”.

The symbolic ranges of Irpinia are cultivated on the Fonzone estates: aglianico (about 12 hectares), fiano d’Avellino (2 hectares), falanghina (3 hectares) and greek di Tufo (1 and a half hectares). No herbicides are utilized in the vineyards and the phytopathological defense follows the concepts of incorporated bug control. The soil is dealt with just with natural fertilizers and green manures and the production load is extremely low. To motivate biodiversity as much as possible, the inter-row area is handled with the grassing strategy of spontaneous plants.

The business, which within a couple of years will get natural accreditation, is accompanied on this journey by specialist oenologist Luca D’Attoma, a leader of natural viticulture and a terrific specialist in biodynamics. Along with him, following his standards, is the oenologist Francesco Moriano.

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF LAND

Paternopoli, in the province of Avellino, is among the seventeen towns in the Taurasi DOCG location. The hill on which the winery stands lies in the Campi Taurasini sub-area and is surrounded by the towns of Villamaina, Castelfranci and Gesualdo.

The Fonzone vineyards extend on both sides of the hill, taking advantage of several direct exposures and an elevation that differs from 360 m to 430 m above water level. The hill consists of both clayey-limestone soils and soils with looser textures, of clear sedimentary origin, and is surrounded by the Fredane and Ifalco streams which affect its microclimate identified by strong temperature level variations in between day and night. Additionally, provided the distance as the crow flies to Vesuvius, there is volcanic dust underground, a deposit of eruptions that have actually happened over the centuries.

The estate is finished with vineyards found in San Potito Ultra, Parolise, Altavilla Irpina and Tufo with elevations that, in many cases, rise to 650 above water level.

CANTINA, AN INCORPORATED TASK IN IRPINIA

The cellar which controls the vineyards, covers an overall area of around 2 thousand m2 and is nearly totally underground, both to mix in with the landscape and to make use of natural elements ideal for processing the grapes and improving the red wine.

The architectural task – curated by the Sifola & Sposato Architetti studio – was born, in truth, from the desire to produce a production plant totally connected to the area, efficient in incorporating and interacting with the surrounding uneven morphology, making it as less intrusive as possible.

Fire red floorings, glass and steel components make the space that houses the bottles an area of terrific visual effect, a theater for tastings and conference minutes.

TASTING NOTES

There are 8 monovarietal red wines in the cellar. 3 red wines are acquired from the Aglianico vineyards: Scorzagalline Taurasi Docg Riserva, Mattodà Irpinia Doc Campi Taurasini, the brand-new pure Aglianico from Campi Taurasini, and Irpinia Rosato Doc. From those cultivated with Falanghina rather Le Mattine Falanghina Irpinia DOC is acquired, while the Fiano d’Avellino Docg originates from the San Potito Ultra vineyards and the Sequoia Fiano d’Avellino Docg Riserva from those of Parolise. To finish the variety, the Greco di Tufo Docg and Oikois Greco di Tufo Docg Riserva vinified with grapes collected in Altavilla Irpina and Tufo.

Fiano di Avellino Docg 2022

Grape range: Fiano di AvellinoVinification: long and short-term macerations of entire lots in amphora and steel and soft pushing. 8 months aging in steel

Produced with Fiano grapes from the Fonzone estate situated in the town of San Potito Ultra (AV) at 500 m above water level on loamy-clayey soil. South-facing vineyard trained utilizing the Guyot system. Gathered in the very first 10 days of October, the vinification accompanies maceration in amphora and in steel, from 3 hours to twelve days. It is a fantastic straw yellow red wine with greenish reflections. The nose is tidy, rather extreme and complex. The scent is fruity and flower, with fragrant herbs and Mediterranean notes. Dry, rather soft, excellent freshness and taste. Relatively great, well balanced and consistent. It matches shellfish, grilled fish, pasta with breast meat ragout, grilled veggies.

Mattodà Campi Taurasini Doc 2019

Grape range: aglianicoVinification: part of the should is fermented and aged for 24 months in cocciopesto amphora with maceration for around 1 month, the other part is fermented and macerated for around 1 month in steel. Aging: in 3 parts, the very first in big barrels of 25 hl, the 2nd in 500 liter barrels, the 3rd in 2nd and 3rd passage barriques for 24 months. Bottle improvement for 6/12 months

The Aglianico vineyard of the Paternopoli estate extends along the 2 sides of a hill situated at an elevation varying from 360 to 430 m above water level and surrounded by the Fredane and Ifalco streams. The grapes from which Mattodà Irpinia DOC Campi Taurasini is acquired are collected by hand, when completely ripe, in the very first 10 days of November. The dynamic ruby red color. The nose is complicated and rather extreme with tips of little fruits such as blackberry and blueberry, balsamic and mentholated notes, hot notes of vanilla, pepper and clove. In the mouth it is dry, soft, rather tannic and mineral. Total well balanced, rather great and unified. Robust body, exceptional perseverance. It matches red meats, hot meals, fully grown cheeses.