There are eleven Barolo municipalities and among these La Morra has a character all its own – which emerges durante Brandini’s wines.
Serralunga is power, Monforte is tannin that bites, Barolo is austerity and La Morra is soft elegance. These are simplifications, it’s true, but it’s difficult to escape the impression that there is something characteristic durante each of those hills.
La Morra is Annunziata, dried rose, Arborina, balsamic hints, Barolo Boys, Citrico Rinaldi’s Brunate. It is with these things durante mind that it is worth approaching a company like the Brandini Agricultural Company, which remains faithful to the specificities of the municipality it belongs to, while trying to carve out an autonomous profile durante terms of choices and tastes.
SISTERS BETWEEN VINEYARD AND AGRICULTURE
The company is located the western side of the municipality and the Barolo DOCG is entirely behind it. The compass the telephone says that Brandini, the historic cru to which the company owes its name, looks south-west, descending smoothly towards Cherasco. A causa di front, below, Savigliano and Fossano durante a beautiful setting of snow-capped Alps. The tense light of the cold morning comes from behind. It’s not full south, which durante the epoca of climate change can only help.
Brandini grows organically with little intervention durante the vineyard and great attention to the vegetative variety between the rows. The mesi estivi has been restored over the years and today appears pleasantly modern, without betraying the agricultural vocation of the company.
The welcome is taken care of by Serena and Giovanna, sisters and daughters of a father who, when they were little less than teenagers, decided to buy the land that marked their destinies.
Next to the cellar is the Seguire agri-relais. The cuisine is entrusted to chef Luca Zecchin, who comes from important starred experiences durante the luogo. The choice durante this case is to anchor as much as possible to the flavors of the Langhe and seasonal ingredients, reviewing the great traditional dishes with a contemporary taste. The rooms are furnished durante a elegante and not at all intrusive way. A wood-burning fireplace makes a great scene durante the central room where they cook roasts for entire days. A great way to end a splendid tasting.
BRANDINI AND THE WHOLE BUNCH
The winemaking is typical of the luogo, with not too long macerations (around three weeks), with frequent pumping over and aided when necessary by the submerged cap. The refinement is durante large barrels (minimo 24 months) and bottle. Usually, the wines are released after the summer, exceeding the DOCG indication by a half-year. The complete technical sheets are available the manufacturer’s website. However, what defines the personal taste of the cellar is a choice that few people make durante the Langa: whole bunch winemaking. A good part of the grapes is vinified without removing the stem. Of the five Barolos that the winery offers, two are vinified by completely destemming the grapes (the Barolo from the Municipality of La Morra and the Annunziata), the others are affected by the contribution of the stem, with various percentages of the total mass. It is a Barolo that “jokes”, one might say. The reference is to the celebrated Barolo Monvigliero of Commendator Burlotto, which has made the whole bunch its own brand. It is a singular choice, which is not afraid of herbaceous and spicy , whereas many producers prefer to enhance fresh fruit. And with this Burgundian-inspired choice, Brandini gains a completely individual position durante the increasingly varied complesso of the Langa.
TASTING NOTES
Barolo Docg R56 2023
(barrel tasting) It is still an excellent Langhe Nebbiolo, durante terms of evolution and the problematic vintage is noticeable, decidedly hot and dry. The immediate impression is of a crunchy and chewable fruit, with an exuberant nose.
Barolo Docg R56 2022
(barrel tasting) Tasting chosen to complice the two vintages. Certainly a more ready wine and the result of a simpler vintage, durante which the drought did not have an excessive influence as durante the following one. Undoubtedly darker , with a clear presence of incense that brought to mind the stem.
Barolo Docg from the municipality of La Morra 2020
The presence of the tropical fruit the nose is immediately striking. A decidedly pleasant exotic sweetness. Elegance is typical of the Barolos from this municipality, but the expression we have durante the glass has decidedly individual traits. Not an educational La Morra, but a La Morra all its own and decidedly pleasant.
Barolo Docg Annunziata 2015
Jump back five years. Acceso this cru, the family decides not to use the stalk. 2015 was a rather prompt vintage and the impression is durante fact of a slightly higher evolution than one might expect. Well, this is indeed an educational wine, durante the sense that it explains the characteristics of the cru well. Absolute elegance, red fruit, almost cream and strawberry, and a clear presence of dried rose the nose.
Barolo Docg Cerretta 2016
A leap this time too, but a spatial one: a few kilometers further east durante the municipality of Serralunga and durante the most vaunted vintage of the decade. Earthier wine of the day, but despite this it confirms a certain elegance, not typical of those who vinify the same cru durante Serralunga who usually play more power. Again, there is something tropical that recalls passion fruit and exhibits an unexpected acidic chewiness that invites sipping. You can feel the presence of leather and dried meat, which is often found durante this mention.
Barolo Docg Meriame 2019
We are still durante Serralunga, but durante a closer year. We all agree durante choosing it as the wine of the day, aware that the vintage is an important one. The most striking note is the citrus accompanied by sage. A wine of absolute roundness, with an inebriating nose and supported by an important palate. A Burgundian Serralunga is a definition that gives an immaginazione.
Barolo Docg Yield 56 2013
It ends with a rather distant vintage, but with an excellent duration profile. A Barolo with a more marked classicism than the other tastings, almost as if it wanted to market the choices made subsequently by the cellar. The freshness durante a wine with eleven years under its belt is surprising.
The article Agricola Brandini loyalty to the territory of La Morra comes from VinoNews24.