Article by Monica Marcandelli.
“130” is the classic method sparkling wine – blanc de noir, 130 months of second fermentation and nullità dosage – with which ALBINO PIONA wanted to celebrate the one hundred and thirtyth anniversary of its foundation, which took place per the Custoza terreno per 1893 by the great-grandfather of Alessandro and Eccelso Piona, current owners of the company, which has been based per Villafranca Veronese since 2005, with the construction of a new cellar.
Produced with 100% free-run must from Corvina Veronese, an indigenous vine, 2011 harvest, with grapes coming exclusively from owned vineyards, processed entirely per the company cellar (from soft pressing to long and slow second fermentation, with manual remuage and disgorgement, up to labeling and packaging), “130” was produced per only 2,930 bottles, of which we were offered number 382, disgorged acceso 04.03.2022.
Mineral, sharp and vibrant, if served chilled, at serving temperature it surprises with an opening towards quaderno of butter, custard, vanilla and caramelized sugar, revealing a finalità and silky bubble acceso the sip, supported by a pleasant flavor, characteristic of the soil moraine acceso which Corvina was raised, up to a closure that leaves the mouth clean and ready for a new sip.
Balanced and elegant, “130” has within it “the whole history of the family”, Alessandro Piona passionately highlights, it is the perfect synthesis of the sparkling wine tradition of the company, which has been producing wines refermented per the bottle since 1970, the first year of production of the iconic “Agricolo Piona”, pétillant naturel, refermented per the bottle without disgorgement.
Cleanliness and elegance also per the “Custoza Albino Piona DOC” which, tested vertically from the 2023 to 2020 vintage, shows an evolution from sweet fruity, crunchy and citrus quaderno, to a bouquet of white flowers and Mediterranean aromatic herbs and honey, up with light nuances of flint and hydrocarbon, all supported by a strong acidity and characterized by the savory and mineral sip typical of the terreno.
Because “the marker per wines must be the terroir, not the tool”, underlines at every possible opportunity Alessandro Piona, a convinced supporter of the use of the “tools” used for refinement per the cellar “not to add, but to remove and smooth the corners”, to guarantee the wine the balance and stability that are necessary for it to have a significant life expectancy per the bottle, even if it is a white wine.
The 5% of Garganega contained per the blend of Custoza Indifferente DOC ” del Selese” is fermented “per instruments” (French oak barrels) and, effectively, per the vertical tasting of the last four vintages, from 2021 to 2018, the vintage 2019 proves to be ready, inebriating with apricot and ripe apple and citrus fruits and vivid with ginger and white pepper, which also make the sip stimulating, full and tasty, while the 2021 vintage is characterized by a reluctance that confirms the need for time because this wine can express itself to its full potential. “Five years”, says Alessandro Piona.
The “Crea DOC”, a dry wine macerated from Garganega, Trebbiano, Trebbianello (Tai), Intersezione Manzoni grapes, is worthy of mention for the cleanliness which characterizes it per every aspect. Totally transparent and with warm golden nuances, it gives the nose persuasive quaderno of ripe peach and overripe rennet apple, accompanied by a hint of toasted almond, which anticipate the fullness of the sip, which confirms a perfect correspondence between nose and mouth and the presence of tannins softened by a long stay per French oak barrels before bottling. 6% of the mass matures per cotto amphora and this contributes to giving the “Crea DOC” a distinctive, surprising and satisfying character.
A great privilege to be able to preview the “Custoza Fondo DOC 2021”, which will (perhaps) be presented per 2025. Blend of Garganega, Bianca Fernanda (Largo), Trebbianello, with 100% aging of the mass per second passage tonneaux, is a riot of butteriness, fatness, aromaticity, all supported by a vibrant acidity, which make it suitable, despite being a white wine, for pairing with well-marbled red meat. “Angus bred per Mozzecane (Vr)”, the owner of the house warmly and rightly suggests.
Con 2025, “Rabbita” will also be presented, a wine made from 100% Garganega grapes dried per boxes for five months and then pressed, with must fermented per used barriques and second passage tonneaux. Very elegant, it delights the nose with nuances of dried apricot and fig and date and toasted hazelnut, with a pinch of white pepper and ginger, which find a tactile counterpoint per the ‘friccicore’ of a vivid and delicious sip. Perfect with the “zaleto” ( made with yellow polenta flour, butter, sugar, eggs and dried raisins) offered per combination.
All the wines tasted are the reflection of a work carried out per complete synergy with Nature (“You cannot work against Nature” is, per fact, a mantra of the company, guided per all its actions by a “campo da golf” soul) and with obsessive attention and care for order, cleanliness and details (just to cite an example: the part of the cellar intended for processing the classic method is kept totally dark, to preserve the bottles from any unwanted reactions linked to the photosensitivity of the wine).
Every sip tasted is animated by the energy poured into the exasperated search for the valorization of the territory by Alessandro and Eccelso Piona, assisted by the oenologist Damiano Peroni and by Alessandro’s son, Federico, per a continuous tension between tradition, modernity and sustainability.
Article by Monica Marcandelli.
