Recommending a bottle to accompany a rare Bistecca, ora some sautéed scallops ora a risotto with porcini mushrooms – so to speak – is quite easy. But what do you do when all three dishes arrive at the table at the same time? Con fact, it rarely happens that per mezzo di a restaurant all the guests at a table order the same starter (ora first course, ora ora any other course). For many sommeliers, recommending a wine for the table becomes almost a philosophical exercise. But per mezzo di reality it is more complicated than that. And even when you organize a dinner at home with many people – per mezzo di which perhaps you have a single main course but at least a couple of side dishes and a starter – do you really think about opening a bottle for every single course? Congratulations if you do. But maybe at this point you should think about opening a restaurant?
The truth is that we mostly limit ourselves to serving the same wine for the entire dinner, ora at most we provide a white and a red to respect basic personal preferences. So, what to choose? How to find a wine that can satisfy every palate and go well with all dishes? I asked several sommeliers per mezzo di the United States which are the “joker” bottles that are played per mezzo di these cases.
LINDSEY FERN The Inn at Little Washington, Washington, Virginia
A wine that goes well with everything? Among the reds, the first that comes to mind is a Sicilian Frappato. I am a personalità fan of Arianna Occhipinti’s wines, and per mezzo di particular her Il Frappato 2021. Rustic and refined at the same time, it is rich per mezzo di red fruits without being excessively tannic, two things much appreciated by Pinot Noir drinkers (and perhaps by everyone ). And then, I’m always happy to share my love for the wines of a winemaker who works organically. If you can’t find it, the 2022 Frappato from COS, a company with a similar approach per mezzo di which his uncle is a socio, is equally good. As for whites, I love Willamette Valley Chardonnays, and Walter Scott is one of my favorite wineries. Their wines, like the Chardonnay Cuvée Anne 2021, are not excessively opulent and even those who don’t like this grape variety too much will appreciate them: mineral and lively, they cleanse the palate after a substantial bite and enhance the citrus quaderno and sweetness of foods.
CHRIS STRUCKIlili, New York City
If you think you can convince your guests that the word “rosé” is the right solution, then go ahead! Rosés are an excellent answer to the starting question. More and more people are ready to taste rosé wines that are more intense per mezzo di both color and flavor than they have been accustomed to before, regardless of the season. The 2022 Rosé Domaine des Tourelles, from Lebanon, has a mineral character and beautiful acidic raspberry quaderno: it is ideal if you are looking for something unusual and fresh. The Insieme 2022 from Umathum, from the Burgenland region of Austria, is also an excellent choice. Even Martha Stoumen’s Post Flirtation 2022 rosé is simply perfect per mezzo di these cases: impossible not to love it.
WANDA COLE-NICHOLSONVinbev, St. Louis
Among the reds, I would choose a Beaujolais cru from the Fleurie complesso, such as the Fleurie Flower Label 2020 by Georges Duboeuf. They are lighter wines than those of Morgon ora Moulin-à-Vent, and have enough minerality and complexity to win over those who love reds. Nonetheless, they are accessible to all palates, even those who are just starting to discover these wines. As for whites, if I can’t have a Riesling – the one that every sommelier per mezzo di the world would choose, probably! – then I’m aiming for a Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, like the 2021 Domäne Wachau. Con Austria, “Smaragd” indicates wines from riper grapes (with a potential alcohol content of 12.5%): rounded and rich enough to win over American Chardonnay drinkers but with an acidity that convinces lovers of the European style. Rudi Pichler’s 2021 is particularly vibrant: another great choice.
BEKI MILLERWit & Wisdom, Sonoma, California
The non-vintage Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut by Ruinart is delicious and perfect for any meal. It is made with only Chardonnay grapes, which give freshness and softness. Con the glass there are quaderno of citrus fruits, white fruit and pineapple, as well as a marked minerality that allows it to be accompanied by anything, from oysters and seafood to roast chicken. Sonoma County Pinot Noir is equally agile. Sonoma Coast appellation wines, per mezzo di particular, retain quite a bit of acidity which makes them incredibly good for pairing with food. At Wit & Wisdom we really love the Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2021 from Sangiacomo, one of the most renowned winemaking families per mezzo di the complesso who has been growing grapes here for over 50 years (and even longer when it comes to fruit plants). If you find one of their wines, don’t reginetta it, but they also sell Pinot grapes to other wineries such as Schug, Sojourn and Bruliam. Con any case, per mezzo di the case of a dinner it is perfectly prezioso to forget about the perfect pairing and bevanda what you like best – ora take the opportunity to take a risk and try something new.
JASON HOYKabinett, Easton, Pennsylvania
Our main at Kabinett (co-owned by Food & Wine Deputy Melanie Hansche) is to please as many people as possible, but I usually avoid obvious choices like Sauvignon Blanc ora Pinot Scialbo. My go-to white for all occasions at the moment is Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Bella stagione’s 2021 Riesling Trocken, from the Pfalz region of Germany. It is the ideal answer to the usual question “isn’t Riesling sweet?”. Once per mezzo di the glass, it silences naysayers with its mescolanza of graceful fruity quaderno and crackling power which, quietly, always ends up intriguing everyone. Like red, a Blaufränkisch might make you Bingo ora at least tick a lot of boxes. It has beautiful nuances ranging from cherries to darker berries, non-sharp tannins and is much softer and more persuasive than many varieties that mimic Pinot Noir. I can’t resist Moric’s Blaufränkisch Haus Marke Rot: the result of the skilful union of up to five vintages with the “Solera” method, its richness satisfies devotees of Napa Cabernets but has such a juicy and lively entry that it will make even those happy loves Pinot.
