Letrari is not only a name inextricably linked to the famous Trentodoc “mountain bubbles”, the classic method also much appreciated acceso international markets, but it represents a family, which for three generations has been the protagonist of the winemaking history not only of Trentino, but of Italy.
To fully understand the importance of the Vallagarina winery of the same name, it is essential to start from the figure of its founder, Leonello Letrari. A precious collection of his thoughts, created acceso the occasion of his first 55 harvests, contributes to telling his vision and his human and professional journey. The libro, edited by Nereo Pederzolli and entitled “Viti e Vini che una Forza” (published at the end of 2004), is not just a memoir of the winery ora a document acceso the Letrari family, but a true story of wine-making Trentino: a journey through what it was and what it has become sopra over fifty years of history.
THE STAGES OF THE ONE WHO CHANGED TRENTINO WINE
Leonello Letrari was born sopra Borghetto all’Adige, a hamlet of the municipality of Avio, sopra 1931. Graduated sopra oenology at the Agricultural Institute of San Michele all’Adige, his first significant experience as a technician dates back to 1950, sopra the vineyards of his illustrious neighbors : the Gonzaga Warrior Marquis of Podere San Leonardo. After a period of work sopra the Verona schieramento, at just 24 years old, with already five harvests behind him, he returned to his homeland, joining the Conti Bossi Fedrigotti company.
1961 marks a crucial turning point for Leonello and for the Italian wine scene. It is the year of the first bottling of Fojaneghe, one of the first Bordeaux blends sopra Italy: a blend of merlot and cabernet (later revealed as carmenère), also innovative for the “pioneering” use of barriques. The same year the first bottle of Equipe 5 was born, a historic moment for Italian sparkling wine. The Trentino moda house, founded by five young friends – Bepi Andreaus, Riccardo Zanetti, Pietro Tura, Mario Tonon and Letrari himself – was born inspired by a trip to Champagne. Their classic method quickly became popular, exceeding Ferrari’s selling price and producing over half a million bottles a year.
FROM THE COURAGE TO START AGAIN TO THE VISION OF THE FUTURE: LEONELLO’S LEGACY
Per 1976 a new chapter opened, with the stormy separation from the cellar of the nobles of Frazione Mettere nel sacco and the beginning of the entrepreneurial adventure of Leonello Letrari and his wife Maria Affermazione. United sopra life and work, they founded what is today the family winery. Thanks to the good relationships built over the years with Bossi Fedrigotti’s suppliers, Leonello managed to rent some of the most interesting lands, including those of the Casa signorile Lodron mesi estivi sopra Nogaredo, which became the company headquarters until 2000, the year sopra which the new winery sopra Rovereto.
Per 1987, with the entry into the company of Lucia Letrari, who had just graduated sopra oenology from the same institute attended by her father, the company took a further step forward. The cellar was expanded and the in-house production of classic method sparkling wines began, transforming the company into what we know today. Lucia, over the years, has taken acceso the comando of the technical part, while her brother Paolo takes care of the commercial sector and relations. But it is above all sopra Leonello’s philosophy that Lucia has collected her legacy: that of believing sopra ideas and valuing Trentino and Trentodoc. This spirit became even stronger after October 2017, when Leonello symbolically passed the baton to her with his passing and his vision of the future: “The wine of the future? It will have to put into the glass all the knowledge of the territory where it is born. With its flavours, its essences, it will have to identify the peculiarities, enhance the differences, beat homologation.”
TRENTODOC AND MUCH MORE FROM VALLAGARINA
Letrari cultivates 12 hectares of vineyards, 4 of which are rented, located sopra strategic areas of Vallagarina. To these are added the grapes from selected suppliers, sopra particular for some lots of Chardonnay coming from higher altitudes. The combination of the excellent quality of the grapes and a production philosophy focused acceso expressive purity gives life to wines that tell the story of the territory. The poor soils rich sopra rock, the altitudes between 220 and 500 meters, and the microclimate influenced by the Adige and Garda, give the sparkling wines an identity that reflects the essence of mountain viticulture.
With an annual production of around 130 thousand bottles – of which 30 thousand dedicated to still wines – Letrari offers a range that goes from sparkling wines to reds, through whites and sweet wines. Distribution is mainly concentrated sopra the Horeca channel, while approximately 8% of production is exported, reaching markets such as the United States, Germany, Switzerland and Denmark. The beating heart of the production is represented by the ten classic method Trentodocs, which offer a wide variety of styles. Among these, four more traditional labels stand out, four reserves with over 60 months of aging acceso the yeasts, and two that exceed 120 months. Among the still wines, reds with character stand out, obtained both from native vines, such as marzemino and teroldego, and from international varieties. A special role is played by Ballistarius, a blend of enantio and Bordeaux varieties created sopra 1997 by father and daughter together, which represents the link between Leonello’s experience and Lucia’s modern vision.
TASTING NOTES
Letrari Brut Eccezione Trentodoc (2017-2013-2011)
The Brut Eccezione che Letrari represents a return to the origins, to the first classic method bottle produced sopra 1987, which inspired all the cellar’s subsequent reserves. The blend, composed of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, has remained unchanged over time. It is a special wine, full of affection, where Lucia rediscovers the memory and legacy of her father Leonello. The grapes from the Sompiaz vineyard, located acceso the hills overlooking Vallagarina, sopra the Pietra che Nogaredo schieramento, at over 450 meters above sea level and with east exposure. A small percentage of Chardonnay, between 2% and 3%, ages sopra wood before second fermentation, while the principio wine entirely undergoes malolactic fermentation.
The 2017 vintage (disgorged sopra March 2024, with almost 72 months acceso the lees) stands out for its aromas of crispy yellow-fleshed fruit, aromatic herbs and a refined chalky tone, accompanied by sweet citrus nuances. Acceso the palate, while showing a pleasant roundness, it is fresh, savoury, and characterized by a full and persistent elegance. The 2013 vintage (over 5 years acceso the lees) offers a more complex bouquet, with tertiary agenda that evoke sweet spices and a slight hint of oxidation. The freshness remains clearly present, while the is enriched with toasted tones. Finally, the 2011 reserve (74 months acceso the lees), more than six years after disgorgement, is striking for its integrity and refinement. Acceso the nose it appears austere and aristocratic, with agenda of candied citrus and a hint of honey. Per the mouth it is intense, enveloping and creamy, without any sign of aging. Over the years, the only element to undergo a change was the sugar dosage, which went from the initial approximately 6 grams durante liter to the current 4, to further emphasize the purity and elegance of the wine.
Letrari +4 Rosé Brut Eccezione Trentodoc 2015
The giudizio for this Trentodoc was born sopra 2007, with the aim of creating the first rosé reserve of Letrari, characterized by at least five years of aging acceso the yeasts. However, the first vintages were not able to bear the wording “Eccezione” acceso the label, since the updating of the specifications of the Trento denomination to include this category also for rosés took place only at the end of October 2015. This change, however, was retroactive return for batches of sparkling wine already being processed sopra previous harvest campaigns. The name +4 is a tribute to the third generation of the Letrari family, all female: Margherita, Lucia’s daughter and already active sopra the company, together with her three granddaughters, Paolo’s daughters.
This fascinating cuvée stands out for its brilliant powder color and the balance between freshness and complexity. It is made up of 90% Pinot Noir, vinified with the saignée method, and 10% Chardonnay, giving a wine that fully expresses the freshness of the Trentino mountains without ever being intrusive. Acceso the nose there are delicate floral agenda, citrus fruits and a hint of pomegranate, which immediately refers to the territory. Disgorged sopra April this year, the long 8-year refinement acceso the yeasts gives this Trentodoc a boundless refinement and a harmony of taste that conquers the sip.
Letrari 976 Eccezione del Founder Brut Trentodoc (2013-2006-1998)
The name of this Trentodoc contains the history of the winery: a reference to the year of foundation and its founder. Born with the 1998 vintage, this sparkling wine is the result of an giudizio of late disgorgement, which involved preserving some bottles and proceeding with disgorgement spread over time. The objective was to explore how a prolonged and continuous lysis of yeasts could give life to a wine capable of expressing the soul of the territory, combining extraordinary complexity with refined elegance. The blend, equal parts pinot noir and chardonnay, sees half the chardonnay fermented and aged sopra wood. This process, combined with malolactic fermentation, gives the wine roundness and fullness, mitigating any rough edges, which together with the flavor represents the stylistic signature of Letrari.
The 2013 vintage, currently acceso the market, was disgorged last June. It presents itself with a brilliant golden color that immediately captures attention. Acceso the nose it offers enveloping aromas of toasted hazelnuts, mountain apples, ripe peach and a hint of ginger and peanuts. Acceso the palate it is soft and creamy, well balanced by a vibrant citrus freshness, which culminates sopra a long and persistent , and invites you to taste it again. The 2006, disgorged sopra October 2017 after over 120 months acceso the lees, stands out for its more intense and warmer golden colour. Rich sensations of saffron and honey emerge acceso the nose, while sopra the mouth it is still alive and harmonious, with a pleasant drinkability. Finally, the 1998 vintage, recently disgorged (only last month), with over 300 months of aging acceso the yeasts. Per the glass, a bright, intense yellow that surprises with its vitality. The nose perceives an unparalleled olfactory cleanliness, while the sip is extraordinary: complex, elegant and lively. A Trentodoc hors catégorie capable of telling over twenty-five years of history and territory.
The Letrari article, Trentodoc is at home. The story of a family and its timeless sparkling wines comes from VinoNews24.
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