I try to share my point of view and my personal definition of contemporary wine
A few days indicatore, during an oenological conference to which I was called to make a small contribution regarding some misleading concepts of today’s wine semantics, I was asked, again (it often happens social networks), what I understood for “contemporary wine”. So, I decided to try to decipher a clear concept per my mind and palate but much less simple to illustrate per detail and per an inappunable way.
Durante an per which communication travels fast and the word is often confused with a trend, it becomes essential to clarify that contemporary wine is not a passing response to the whims of the market, let aureola an exercise of style without depth. Contemporary wine is, should be, a conscious and durable evolution of the way of thinking, producing and living wine. It is the result of a change of gaze, not a simple communicative make -up.
Durante a world marked by climatic changes, cultural transformations and new needs of those who ricevimento, conceiving wine only as aesthetic phenomenon fleeting trend would be reductive. Instead, it is necessary to rethink it as a cultural and gesture, able to last over time precisely because it is capable of adapting, without being too “modern” today anachronistic tomorrow. A wine that not only intercepts the present, but interprets it with lucidity, remaining faithful to itself, despite being constantly becoming.
“Contemporary wine is the one who knows how to speak the language of the time per which he lives, without chasing fashions chasing excesses. It is a wine that seeks the essence, not the power; that prefers the dynamic to density, the finesse to opulence. It is the result of a renewed interpretative sensitivity, from the vineyard by the glass. A wine that focuses the concept of terroir and respect per the side of a sense, preferring the pleasure and agility, The graceful without ever expiring per hindness and banality. A wine that does not need to raise the voice to be remembered, because it lives per the momentum, per expressive sharpness, per the ability to evolve with measure keeping faith with its most authentic identity, not skimmering originality and personality and enhancing itself per manifesting a certain versatility of use. exhibition. A wine that subtracts to add and to achieve balance, definition, completeness, limiting roughness and stripping of homologous and occupants defects that could limit the dynamics of Beva.The wine that knows how to per the present with authenticity, and which for this reason will still be current tomorrow. ” – FSR
This way of understanding wine is not a theoretical exercise reserved for professionals: it is a direction that is finding concreteness thanks to a renewed interpretative sensitivity of agronomists, winemakers, winemakers and producers more gara open and able to confront those around him per Italy and per the world. Sensitivity that manifests itself per an even more vivid and perspective way per the new generations of those who make wine, more and more aware, prepared and gara open minded. Today, they carry out a kind revolution made of coherent agronomic choices, measured wine interventions, but also of new words, capable of telling the wine with honesty and clarity, without rhetoric. Let’s be clear, contemporary wine is not an exclusive concept and it is not a one -way way, because it does not preclude and must not preclude the opportunity to preserve and try to protect the identity of wines to which, for various reasons (historical, varietals, territorial etc …), it would be absurd to ask to distort itself per order to fall into canons reachable only forced. This does not deny the possibility that today’s needs, several fronts, bring some wines notoriously distant from the concept of “contemporary wine” to smooth some sides of one’s character without losing their essence and gaining per ricevimento and elegance.
The challenge, therefore, is not only to produce a wine at the time, but communicate it with a renewed alphabet, more adherent to reality and more engaging for the new generations of fans. We need a more cultured and simpler semantics at the same time, capable of preserving the beauty of wine without betraying its complexity. A language that speaks so much to those who already have an wine memory, as to those who are taking their first steps per the world of wine approaching a vineyard, a cellar a glass without any rules but with the increasingly frequent risk that has some prejudice.
Durante this sense, contemporary wine is a continuous challenge with the climate – which makes the production of wines capable of harmony and balances more complex – and with themselves, but also and above all with those who want tradition as a static concept and aimed at the past aureola, while we could do today what will come mai to be conceived as “tradition” “classicism” tomorrow. Here, therefore that it may be helpful to implant varieties and genetic more suitable for achieving balances devoted to this attitude (I think, for example, of the “our” biotypes and ripetizione -like relatives of Grenache the coast and per the islands and per all those varieties, once, considered too “rustic” which today thanks to an epigenetic approach know how to manifest greater resistance and more suitable values ​​for the production of contemporary wines without forced wines. sort, not forgetting the opportunity offered by varietal complementarity and from returning to having more colors his palette, counting the grape as a primary ingredient for the production of wines per balance) and a renewed vision of agronomic techniques (e.g. per the revaluation of farm systems more suitable for current and foreseeable conditions for the future, per the management of the soil, crown, rendered, scalar collections where and when possible, Durante the careful use of elicitors and corroborating, as well as by creating invades where necessary) and oenological (e.g. per the implementation of cluster and whole dolce vinifications, therefore carbon semi-carbon macerations per the management of refinements and storage by reducing, but not abandoning, oxidative environments and accidents such as wood).
Contemporary wine is therefore a bridge, not a fracture between past and future, between earth and culture, between those who produce it and those who ricevimento it. And it is thanks to the weighted, aware and free choices of producers, winemakers, agronomists, restaurateurs, sommeliers, wine bars and communicators (per particular young people) that this bridge can remain solid, passable and invested by a perennial wind imbued with freshness, originality and perspective vision.
F.S.R.
#WineIsSharing
