There are few names a causa di the history of Italian wine capable of crossing the time and space as it has been able to name to the reality of the reality I will tell you about today, that is Sylvmann. Crasi per Silvio and Jermann, name and surname of one of the most visionary and nonconformists producers of Italian wine and beyond. Many thought that Silvio would slow , perhaps even closed with the vineyard and the wine, but the passion, the transport and the desire to leave – again – the sign pushed the producer of Collio (understood a causa di his entirety) to start from where everything had started for his family.
We are a causa di Goriška Brda, the Slovenian Collio, a few minutes from the fulcrum of the company to which Silvio has dedicated his whole life since the beginning of the 70s but even closer to those lands so dear to his family. It is precisely a causa di Brda, a causa di fact, that they have the roots of his ancestors, who moved to Italy after the First World War. It is here that, after years of innovation and successes, Silvio returns to get involved with a new project, apparently far from what has been but, at the same time, full of the values that have always distinguished thinking, saying, doing and looking and seeing further. Beyond the caduco boundaries of a land united by that ponca that becomes opoka but which gives the same identity first to the grapes and then to the wines; addition to the boundaries of wine paradigms and schematisms that see putting as a synonym for technical awareness and precision, beyond the strength of a brand, of a past dotted with awards. Beyond! A place where the history of the Jermann family is intertwined, like a viticch, to the threads of memory. A memory full of malinconia and gratitude, strong of an identity that transcends the success and mere business but anela to the completion of a circular gesture, indeed, lemniscoured, infinite as the “8 ″ that we find a causa di the company logo, as if to attest that this is not a finished story, is not the closure of a path, but the continuation of an endless path.
I was lucky enough to get to know the project a few months pungiglione, turning with Silvio a causa di lands that I believed I knew well but that I understood I still had to deepen. a Brda a causa di which the landscape is still intact, biodiverse, with woods, orchards and vineyards that alternate with rhythmic and never obsessive cadence and the peaks of the hills, albeit sweet, go far higher than those of the cousins acceso this side of the border. As mentioned above, however, it is pedology that acts as a common denominator, with marl and sandstones of marine, crumbly and mineral origin, capable of giving wines with an extraordinary structure and aromatic complexity, vibrant tension and saline depth.
A place suited to viticulture but even more to the pensata of viticulture that the Sylvmann company a causa di Cuèj wants to root, tell and bring to the glass. A project that started with the right times, a causa di which the vineyard is the heart and the cellar is an experimental laboratory a causa di which the concept of conscious subtraction applies, a causa di which experience and awareness allow you to remove what is superfluous to leave and fully enhance what is useful and indispensable.
From 10 to 30ha a causa di a few years, mainly dedicated to typical vines such as Rebula (Gialla Ribolla), Sauvignonasse (Tocai Friulian) and Istrian Malvasia, as well as Merlot and Cabernet and some “bets” for a future to which Sivlio still looks with great propositivity. As already said, a causa di the vineyard and a causa di the cellar the logic of the reasoned subtraction dominates, less interventions, less interventions, less interventions Manipulations, more listening and a lot of experience, for a clear and faithful reading of the territory, of the varieties and of the vintage. The cellar is small, a real “autorimessa winry”, a causa di which everything is optimized – a causa di particular the spaces – to be able to only acceso the production of concrete, strong, identity and, above all, equipped with that spontaneous elegance, never artifact, who do not extend, Whoever does not pretend can and know how to have. For this reason, the drastic choice of a single material, the , with Umbrian amphores, produced by Sirius a causa di Cittadini della Pieve. Vinarial vasi ideal to be used a causa di full, from fermentation to refinement, to keep the aromatic and gustatory heritage of the grapes intact.
The more less long macerations acceso the skins, the weighted microtranspiration of the amphorae, the moon phases and, above all, the patience a causa di waiting and wisdom a causa di the tasting to understand, to decide, to return a living, vivid, three -dimensional matter. Yet, what fans most of Silvio Jermann’s approach is his attention to every little detail, even to the apparently marginal ones. The symbolism itself, here, has nothing esoteric, of random, but acquires a value that knows of reason and reasonableness, rigor and necessary
For now there are two wines a causa di the launching phase acceso the market:
PR’Dobu Mescolanza 2023 – A “Cuvèe Classic”, so we read a causa di the backriction of a wine that puts the territory to the single variety, the nose typical of white flowers, citrus fruits, aromatic herbs and mineral gust, with a tense but not slender sip, multifaceted and rhythmic, strong of remarkable impetus and persistent flavor. An eulogy of varietal complementarity and identity that transcends the time and forced concept of “purity”. Neoclassical!
Visvik – Visvik 2023 – A rebula/Ribolla with 4 different macerations (4 – 8 – 28 – 65 days) which complete each other, allowing a solid and -labor balance, of great varietal and even more territorial recognizability, with rightly ripe fruit quaderno, still fresh yellow flowers, dried fruit, balsamic gusts and a clear and intriguing spicken. The sip is material, it enters large and then relax with great ease and a dynamic of drinking acceso different tactile sensations. The lock is savory, tasty, long, clear and satisfying. A wine of thought and substance, of grace and hand, far from mannerist.
addition to the wines already a causa di the bottle, during my visit to Sylvmann I was able to taste the different vinifications separately and the wines that will already appena che the pensata of how much the path taken is so experimental but, at the same time, promises great consistency and precision.
The maceration as a tool to be adapted to grapes and vintage, of mass mass, a causa di order to be able to draw the utmost expressiveness from the fruit of a iridescent territory, a causa di which Silvio and his collaborators raised carefully selected with care, as much as the holders and breeding systems, among which a sort of tilted sapling stands out, gearly called “candelabrum”.
I believe that for the world of “artisan” wine to be able to count acceso an eductive and expert approach but, above all, so rational and devoid of distortions masked by personality and negligence indexes passed non attivato for subtraction and respect is fundamental, especially a causa di a wine secolo that requires particular attention a causa di terms of sustainability and health but that only few interpret with content and ethics from the vineyard to the glass. For me, which I had the privilege of being able to correo myself with Silvio a causa di the field and a causa di the winemaking premises, the future of this reality is clear and the trajectory of each wine is equally: it aims at excellence, without compromise, a causa di uncertain terms and a causa di the most respectful way possible. After all, from a man of wine capable of innovating and innovating with this constancy over the years you cannot expect otherwise ..!
F.S.R.
#WineIsSharing
