The irrepressible lightness of Lambrusco • Food and Wine Italia

If Greenwich indicates the universal meridian and imposes by convention the chain of hours and days, “The Meridian del Distinzione” which passes to Reggio Emilia and Modena, without forgetting Parma and the territories neighboring from the bass to the Apennines, directs durante one of the most delicious areas of the planet. Here, durante fact, everything speaks of the feeling good at the table and the food and wine pleasure. The concepts of typicality and tradition, of ancient and modern in qualità di together; Food and wine are really felt as culture, lifestyle, self -image. Sopra short, a riot of taste that has an important point durante wine productions, starting from Lambrusco, today more than never a symbol of conviviality and personality and with an excellent position the international market. Acceso June 21, the day of the summer solstice, the Lambrusco Protection Consortium and the Emilia-Romagna regional wine shop wanted to bring it to its many facets of colors and interpretations to touch the sky with a finger, durante Pizzico Helbronner at 3,466 meters, durante the ambiente of the Mont Blanc massif, toasting its “irrepressible lightness”.

The “lightness” of Lambrusco as modernity

The Lambrusco should durante fact be more correctly declined to the plural, since the appellation indicates a family of twelve black berry vines that dominates the Po Valley and from which fresh and contemporary wines arise. He demonstrated it further, if he never had needed, the interesting seminar kept at altitude by the Master of Wine Gabriele Gorelli: the reference to the well -known literary work of Milan Kundera, and to the lightness that durante the case of this “unsustainable” wine is precisely “irrepressible”, and decidedly pleasant. The varied and heterogeneous peculiarities of the many, possible expressions of Lambrusco have thus emerged from the guided tasting and analysis of 13 labels durante a stretching form: from the Lambrusco che Sorbara Doc of Paltrinieri (Serio), Bettola Carpi and Sorbara (tribute to Gino Friedmann 2024), Umberto Cavicchioli and sons (Vigneto del ) and Bettola San Martino. Sopra Rio (Rio), plus the anche se 2017 by Francesco Bellei & C., to the Lambrusco Modena DOC of Ventiventi (La Vie) and of the Formigine Pedemontana cellar (For. . Sa Rosé), up to the Lambrusco Reggiano DOC of Medici Ermete (concert), of Casali Viticulturi (Pra che Bosso) and Lombardini (Lambrusco Brut); Without forgetting the Lambrusco Salaminino of Santa Tribolazione DOC Vigne Antichi of Bettola Santa Tribolazione, the Colli che Scansano and Canossa Doc Amarcord of Bettola Puianello and the Lambrusco Grasparossa of Castelvetro DOC I wines of the King of Bettola Settecani.

But Gorelli also recalled the words of the late Mario Soldati regarding the total denial of absolute laws light wines, as “living, unpredictable and capricious beings”, highlighting the energy, fragrance and versatility of the tasting labels. “Sopra this precise historical moment, Lambrusco interprets lightness not as an absence of content, but as a depth that is expressed durante transparency: a territory that has learned to shine with vitality, precision and technique through the classic method, the reformation durante the bottle and the Charmat method”. A complete story, aimed at highlighting the different and increasingly interesting shades that now leave the years of large numbers and above all that nickname of Coca-Cola Italiana who accompanied the invasion of the United States market durante the 80s of the last century.

The other voices Lambrusco and lightness

Also durante Courmayeur, durante the spaces of the Skyway Mont Blanc, bridge between the ingenuity of man and the suggestions of nature, the theme of lightness remained at the center of attention with great characters from the world of catering and enterprising Lambrusco producers.

Among these Pascal Tinari, sommelier of the Abruzzo restaurant Borgo Maiella, who faced the concept of lightness understood as naturalness and respect for the guest; Paolo Griffa, chef patron of the Aosta National Coffee, so the apparenza of ​​lightness coincides with the search for simplicity, and with the continuous study raw materials and processes; And the chef Heinz Beck, who has always been convinced supporter and dispenser of a healthy cuisine that must first of all consider his impact the well-being of the guest as happens at the Intelaiatura, a three-star Michelin Stella restaurant the Roman hill of the Janiculum: “When we talk about lightness, Lambrusco is the perfect wine by nature and for more than 10-15 years we have kept it with pride durante our wines paper”.

Among the young producers, Alessandro Medici underlined the real identity of his wine: «It has a great acidity, which means freshness and drinkability, as well as a contained alcoholic gradation. Lambrusco is perhaps the pop wine par excellence and must necessarily start to dialogue with the new generations ».

While Cecilia Lombardini has “turned upside ” the alleged oxymoron of lightness as a synonym of banality and approximation: «Lambrusco is all this: vivacity, joy, conviviality. First of all, it is all the lightness of the spirit, “he said, finally reiterating his maximum combination capacity with food:« I consider it one of the most eclectic wine durante the world. Despite having a common name, it presents itself durante many colors, characteristics and types; This is why, from oriental cuisine to South American, there are many international dishes that can be accompanied with our wine ».