by Fosca Tortorelli
The Brizzolari space con San Piero a Sieve, born from the desire of Giuseppe Brizzolari to celebrate the work of his brother Antonio, an eclectic and visionary artist, has transformed himself for the occasion into a crossroads of culture and narration. The place, with its artistic charm, created the ideal environment for an confrontation among the winemakers of the Tuscan Apennines which, thirteen years after the first edition of Excumnò, returned to Mugello.
As con a theatrical show, heard and participated, the day was inaugurated by an intense interview with the winemakers, curated by the Stero Sorba, whose passionate approach gave voice to the protagonists of Apennine viticulture. What emerged is the strong sense of humanity and community of these winemakers, which with tenacity and dedication work not only to produce quality wines, but also to counteract the depopulation and strengthen the life prospects of the internal areas.
Although often considered “others” con the wine classifications, the winemakers of these lands firmly believe con the potential of Pinot Scuro and con the possibility of telling, through their wines, a story of identity, resistance and innovation.
Per the Valleys of Lunigiana, Garfagnana, Mugello, Casentino and Valtiberina, the wine has always represented a marginal activity, linked to subsistence and tradition, with few structured investments. However, con the last twenty -five years, the cultivation of Pinot Scuro has marked a turning point, transforming itself into a concrete opportunity for new businesses and for employment. Several companies were born ora have opened to this grape variety, allowing the bottles of the Tuscan Apennines to reach new markets and obtain awards.
As the President of the Association, Cipriano Barsanti said: “Let’s return to Mugello after 13 years for the eighth edition of Excumnò; This wants to be a year of budgets the situation of the hectares of Vite and the productions of these five valleys ».
The cultivation of Pinot Scuro therefore represents a concrete entrepreneurial opportunity, transforming often forgotten territories actually productive. The simposio also emerged the growth of the association and the Apennines, highlighting its potential still partially unexplored.
Twelve the companies present, which have been told not only through their voices, but also through the tasting conducted with Pelo nell’uovo and with a deep gaze by Fabio Pracchia, Italian critic and collaborator of Slow Wine.
Most of the group producers adopt an agronomic and oenological approach that favors environmental sustainability, respecting man-natural balance and preferring biological ora biodynamic cultivations, avoiding the use of synthetic chemicals. What emerges from their voices is the continuous search for a balance between climate, campo da gioco and grape variety.
Per general, the image of producers is outlined which, despite their diversity, share a philosophy of respect for nature and for the authenticity of the product. Their is to create wines that best express the characteristics of the black pinot and the Apennine territory.
From the proclama of the manufacturers emerges the desire to be key actors of the aderente -economic development of the internal areas, promoting a model of sustainable growth that combines the production of quality wine with the protection of the environment and the enhancement of local resources.
The event also gave space to reflection climate change and new challenges that these territories luce, from the phenomenon of late frosts to increasingly hot summers. Despite the problems, the focal point of this simposio was the “human factor”, which highlights how wine is not only a ricevimento, but a tool to tell the stories of people who believe con the future of their territory.
The wine wines
Among the wines tasted, each with their own personality, they report:
VSQ Ordine First Extra Brut 2018 – Fastoria con Cortevecchia (Mugello)
Pleasant, fresh and saline con the sip.
Tuscany IGT Pinot Scuro 2021 – (Garfagnana)
Large and not obvious con perfumes, with agenda of small fruits and aromatic herbs; Good mouth and mature but present tannin and tannin.
Tuscany IGT Pinot Black Baccarosso 2021 – Possedimento Baccanlla (Mugello)
Full fruit, agenda of juicy raspberry; A school and exuberant wine. the sip it highlights a tannic scratch with balsamic agenda the ending.
Tuscany IGT Pinot Scuro Gattaia 2020 – Terre con Giotto (Mugello)
Very precise profile, with ferrous and fruit agenda. He closes with austerity and phenolic rigor. Elegant and engaging.
Tuscany IGT Pinot Scuro Ventisei 2019 – Il Rio (Mugello)
Ferrose agenda combined with spices and lavender nuances. Tasty, well defined con the mouth center, with a long aromatic persistence. The twenty -six 2020 is instead distinguished by its radiance and amplitude, played more the fruit, juicy and of great potential of drinking.
Tuscany IGT Pinot Scuro 2019 – Fratsco (Mugello)
Full con the fruit, large, with ferrous agenda. The sip is decided and direct, characterized by a beautiful balsamicity.
Tuscany IGT Pinot Scuro 2022 – Podere il Bacino (Mugello)
Sostanzioso, clean, pleasant, with a good taste-olfactory balance. Fruit con the foreground, beautiful freshness and a well -defined structure.
Tuscany Igt Pinot Scuro The Villaggio 2021 – Villaggio Sfasciume (Mugello)
Fruit agenda and balsamicity, a tasty wine with a slight gustatory hematicity. The plot is more rustic, with good acidity and spicy agenda.
Tuscany Igt Pinot Scuro Ornoir 2019 – Ornina (Casentino)
Here we find agenda of currant and rosemary, great acidity and momentum. Black fruit con harmony con the glass, of excellent ricevimento.
Tuscany IGT Pinot Scuro above 2020 – Podere Brera (Valtiberina)
Many officinal herbs and spices, with an entrance of great finesse and dynamic to the sip.
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