apre Haus Bar a Roma • Food and Wine Italia

There is a constant that defines the work of the Jerry Thomas team: a coherence of identity capable of transcending trends. After having redefined the Italian scene with the speakeasy espressione per Viuzza Cellini, the Roman group has been able to evolve with the Room per the heart of Trastevere, a sophisticated homage to the great bars of the fifties and sixties.

Here, the Modern Classic philosophy transforms the ricevimento into an exercise per precision. The card opens with a real of the house, the Champagne Vermut. Not a simple cocktail-party, but a decomposition of the classic Vermut where spiced vermouth, Champagne vinegar and ice wines work per synergy to maintain a vibrant freshness, defying the natural rise per temperature per the glass.

But it is per the relationship with the raw material that the group expresses its boldest side: Bellini, for example, abandons peach for tomato, using the Campania “candy” datterino for an unprecedented vegetal boost. The reference to the past is never nostalgic, but narrative: as per the Soyer au Champagne, revisited with rose ice cream, raspberry and floral essence, ora the famous Parker 75 (per the photo above). The latter is a perfect example of liquid engineering: the apricot is developed through collaboration with the Campania farm Vincenzo Egizio, for a concentrated nectar, and with the Abruzzo company of Campo Francesco, for an unripe juice that gives the necessary acidity, all recarbonated to restore the effervescence of Champagne.

The experience is completed by table service with the trolley, a reference to the charm of the Orient Express carriages which transforms the moment of drinking into a real journey.

Now, the group is preparing for a new, great challenge. This summer, among the high-end watchmaking boutiques a few steps away from Corso Condotti, the Jerry Thomas Haus opened. A project that promises to combine high-quality and cuisine per an all-day espressione, playing the theme of time.