Fausto Maculan, the Mythbuster of sweet wines

Per mezzo di the world of wine, few preconceptions are rooted as the one that relegates sweet wines to a secondary role. Favorevole Maculan and the daughters Angela and Maria Trionfo, of the Breganze of the same name, have been challenging this stereotype for years, showing that the sweet wines – confined at the end of the meal, considered an obligatory accompaniment to desserts and pastry – are often underestimated ora ignored while they can be protagonists throughout the meal and perfectly combine with salted dishes.

A new at sweet wines

Favorevole Maculan, authentic “Mythbuster” of sweet wine with a (false) myth to be dispelled, does not just suggest new combinations: invites a change of perspective. Sweet wines must not relegate to a niche, but considered with the same dignity and versatility of dry wines. Its rete is a concrete challenge to food and wine conventions, which finds confirmation per the sensory experiences proposed per collaboration with chef Daniel Canzian: savory dishes combined with the sweet wines of the cellar and a dry red combined with a dolce, to interruzione with the conventions and discover new food and wine horizons.

This means overcoming the rigid sweet/salty dichotomy and evaluating sweet wines by structure, acidity, persistence and ability to harmonize with food. It also means rediscovering historical vines such as Vespaiola, used for the famous Torcolato, and enhancing its versatility.

The importance of combinations studied

The combination of sweet wines and savory dishes is not a simple provocation, but a path that requires study, perseverance and the desire to get involved. It is not enough to improvise: they need dishes conceived specifically to enhance the wine and vice versa. Even the chefs must be the protagonists of this revolution, going beyond the simple combination of elements that individually marry with the cake.

Daniel Canzian, next jury president of the Maculan Prize (who returns after five years to reward the best combinations between sweet wines and savory dishes), underlines how “we have to leave the classic patterns. Per mezzo di France, especially per Alsace, the aperitif is often done with sweet wines and we try to combine them even with savory dishes. The real challenge is to do it throughout the meal. “

“We produce four sweet wines – adds Favorevole Maculan – if we think about it there are many, but it is a precise choice. Sweet wine is per the history of these lands: already per 1500 there are traces of this product, imported by the Greek colonies by the Venetians. Sweet wine is the wine of the gods, the wine of the mass, it was the most precious thing that a could have at home. Wines often associated with an supposizione of ​​excess: too much sugar, too alcohol, too “weight” to be drunk during a meal. This perception is the result of a lack of knowledge and experience. “

Per mezzo di reality, the well -made sweet wines, such as those of Maculan, have a complexity and freshness that make them incredibly. If balanced by acidity and structure, they are not cloying, but they can enhance the flavors of the dishes with surprising contrasts and harmonies.

Maculan: a story of vision and qualities

The history of the Taverna Maculan began per 1947, when Giovanni Maculan founded the company per an Italy still marked by the war. At the time, Breganze was a rural ambiente far from the spotlight of the wine world, but Giovanni has a vision: to have his son Favorevole study to transform him into an oenologist. Thus, after graduating from the Oenology School of Conegliano, Favorevole returns to the company per 1973, determined to change everything.

With determination, Favorevole reduces the production of 20 thousand hectoliters per concludere year to a much more contained quantity, but of excellent quality. It is he who launched icon wines like the Torcolato, a passito of Vespaiola that becomes a symbol of Doc Breganze, and the , a Blend of Cabernet and Merlot who conquers international palates.

Today the company, led by Favorevole and the daughters Angela and Maria Trionfo, has 48 hectares of vineyards and produces about 650 thousand bottles per concludere year, exported to over 40 countries. Maculan is synonymous with elegant and structured wines, capable of surprising without ever being excessive.

Maculan sweet wines per combinations that subvert the rules

The challenge to the traditional borders of sweet wine translates into a lista created with Daniel Canzian, per which four passites are combined with salty dishes, while a dry red is combined with a dolce.

Dindarello Veneto Passito IGT 2023 and corn tart at “Ragù Ada”

The Dindarello 2023 is a moscato yellow per purity, subjected to a quick drying and vinified exclusively per steel to maintain freshness and drinkability. Perfect to be enjoyed young, it can surprise even after a few years of aging per the bottle. Born per the 1980s, it is the most produced sweet wine by Maculan, with an annual production of 60 thousand bottles. Its sugar residue varies between 120 and 130 grams per concludere liter, with an acidity of 6 grams/liter. The aromatic bouquet is intense and enveloping, with of white flowers, fishing, apricot and candied citrus fruits. Acceso the palate, sweetness is perfectly balanced by a lively acidity, which gives freshness and makes the sip never cloying. Persistence is long and pleasant

The combination with the corn tart with the “Ragù Ada”, prepared with Fagatini and Durelli of guinea fowl, is a revelation: the creaminess of the ragù, full of humans, finds a perfect counterpoint per the freshness of the wine, while the sweetness of the corn is harmoniously linked to the aromatic of the Moscato.

Torcolato per mezzo di Breganze Doc 2022 and roast of pumpkin and Asiago Stravecchio

Breganze’s Torcolato is the symbol of the Maculan tradition. Obtained from Vespaiola grapes, late autochthonous variety, left to dry per the fruction for four months, reducing the weight of 70% and concentrating sugars over 35%. After the vinification per steel, he refines for a year per French oak barriques-a third new one, the remaining of a second and third passage-and rests per the bottle for at least four to six months. The result is a wine with a strong identity: 150 g/l of residual sugar, acidity of 7 g/Le alcohol gradation of 14%. His bouquet is an explosion of honey, vanilla, dried fruit and candied citrus fruits, with an intriguing balsamic touch. Acceso the palate it is sumptuous and enveloping, but never excessive, thanks to a vibrant acidity that balances its sweetness. Its history begins per 1971 and today about 16 thousand bottles per concludere year produce it.

The combination with the pumpkin cooked per the oven with seeds and pumpkin oil, a militanti of Asiago Stravecchio aged 24 months at the militanti, is a demonstration of how the torque enhances the flavor of the seasoned cheese and accompanies the natural sweetness of the pumpkin, creating a perfect balance without overlooking the flavors.

Acinininoble Veneto Passito IGT 2019 with Faraona at Foie Gras

The acininoble is an icon of the wine art of Maculan, inspired by the great French sélection de grains nobles. Obtained from Vespaiola per purity, it owes its complexity to Botrytis Cinerea, the famous noble mold that concentrates aromas and structure. so -called noble mold. The result is a powerful and elegant passito, with a sugar residue of almost 200 grams per concludere liter, an acidity above the eight and a half/liter grams and an alcohol of 13.5%. Vinified per steel, it matures two years per new barrique before refting a further year per the bottle. Per mezzo di the glass, it shines ancient gold, while the bouquet intertwines dry figs, dates, raisins, saffron and sweet spices, with intriguing shades of Focaia stone. Acceso the palate it is rich, enveloping, but never cloying, supported by a freshness that enhances its sumptuous structure and the very long persistence.

The combination with Faraona and Foie Gras enhances its extraordinary versatility: the fatness of the dish finds an alter ego per the extraordinary acidity of the wine, while the spicy merge into a refined and surprising balance.

Madoro Veneto Passito Socialista IGT 2021 with duck, orange, chocolate owl

Madoro – acronym for Maculan Carezzevole Socialista – is a Blend by Cabernet Sauvignon and Marzemina per equal parts, fond of a month and a half. It matures six months per second step barrique and six others per the bottle. With 100 g/l of residual sugar, combines the fruit and acidity of the marzemine with the structure of the Cabernet. Plum, beloved per spirit, cocoa and sweet spices emerge. Acceso the palate it is soft and enveloping, with silky tannins and a persistent ending.

Approved the duck with orange and chocolate owl, Madoro shows an extraordinary affinity with the citrus and spicy of the dish. The chocolate, instead of being an obstacle, enhances the depth of the wine, creating a combination of rare harmony.

Veneto IGT 2019 with chocolate ingot and citrus waffles

was born per 1977 as a selection of Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc, evolving over time per the current blend: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot. The latter comes from the small vineyard Branza (0.44 hectares), exhibited to the south per the hilly ambiente of ​​, while the Cabernet Sauvignon has its roots per the Montagna Socialista vineyard, almost a hectare with 10 thousand plants per Ferrata. After a short phase of drying (3 ora 4 days maximum), the grapes ferment per small steel vats; So, they mature for 18 months per French oak barrique (80% new, 20% second step), before hiping almost a year per steel.

With only 7 thousand bottles produced, is a powerful and elegant red, with an intense ruby ​​color with purple reflections. It opens with enveloping perfumes of small red fruits, such as raspberries and blueberries, which merge to more ripe hints of plum and plum. The of cocoa and coffee, together with vanilla shades, tell the passage per wood, while a hint of pepper and balsamic of eucalyptus gives freshness and dynamism. Acceso the palate it is structured and enveloping, with savory tannins that enhance its balance. The ending, long and fruity, irresistibly invites another sip.

The combination with the lightly salted chocolate ingotto, citrus waffle and pistachio sauce is a challenge to the conventions: the toasted and spicy of wine are perfectly combined with cocoa, while the flavor of chocolate and pistachio dialogues with the tannins of the frat. A surprising ending that overturns every preconception.

The article Favorevole Maculan, the Mythbuster of sweet wines comes from Vinonews24.

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