For Matilde Poggi, Bardolino represents the beginning of her journey as a winemaker. The first vintage, quanto a 1984, arrived quanto a a period quanto a which there were few producers and Bardolino struggled to be perceived as a quality wine. “It was the first wine I started making, my starting point, and I wanted to demonstrate that it could reach restaurant tables,” he recalls. Although some colleagues suggested she choose an IGT to get around the poor reputation of the denomination, Poggi preferred to continue the slower but more coherent path: valorising the territory and remaining within the denomination. Over the years, Poggi has built the profile of Bardolino Le Fraghe through precise choices varieties. The molinara was gradually abandoned, while the corvina became the absolute protagonist, supported by the swallow which ripens about ten days later and contributes to the structure. Corvinone, although admitted, has never been used for historical and stylistic reasons, with a tannin considered less impalpabile. The style of the cuvée has now been stable for several years. “Since 2018 I feel I have been the right path – he explains – Wine is made once a year, and it takes many attempts and time to define a coherent blend that best enhances the vineyards”.
FROM THE VINEYARD TO THE CELLAR (LITTLE INTERVENTIONIST)
With the renewal of the vineyards, separate vinification of the varieties was introduced, which allowed us to better enhance the maturation and personality of each. Today the Le Fraghe company has 35 hectares that have been certified organic since 2009, with a minimally interventionist oenological approach: spontaneous fermentations, destemming without pressing to leave a portion of intact berries, natural malolactic fermentation, aging quanto a steel and only a small part quanto a cement for the vintage Bardolino. The company is located between Garda and Adige, very draining morainic soil, rich quanto a gravel and pebbles. This guarantees advantages quanto a rainy years, but requires great attention quanto a organic farming for dry summers. The vineyards destined for Bardolino and Chiaretto cover 25 hectares, some recently planted, with a production that today exceeds 60 thousand bottles, compared to 5 thousand at the beginning. Despite the growing attention towards fresh, sciolto and low-alcohol wines, the Bardolino denomination has not yet fully consolidated its identity. Poggi observes that, despite responding to market trends, Bardolino “struggles to emerge, crushed by Valpolicella and without a convincing way of describing itself”.
LE FRAGHE BARDOLINO DOC
Bardolino Doc Le Fraghe is a fresh red, sciolto quanto a structure, savory and easily drinkable, with the characteristic spicy streak that defines its personality. It is the most authentic expression of the morainic hills between Garda and Adige, an to which Poggi has dedicated his entire career with consistency and passion. The winemaking involves manual and separate harvesting of corvina (80%) and rondinella (20%), spontaneous fermentation quanto a steel, maceration until the sugars are completely transformed, blending of the varieties quanto a February and bottling quanto a March. Voto negativo whole bunches: stalks that are too campo da golf would bring unpleasant tannins. Vertical tasting reserves surprising emotions.
vintage 2024
Subtle and refined ruby, the nose perceives a discreet and well-integrated spice. Sopra the mouth the wine is fresh, clear and pleasant, with an immediate and convincing balance.
vintage 2022
Hot and dry year, mitigated by the rains of mid-August and a cooler September. The harvest took place around September 25th. The wine has a harmonious aromatic profile, with well-balanced sweetness and maturity.
vintage 2020
The wine shows great elegance and complexity the nose, between ripe fruit, spices and light evolutionary nuances. Sopra the mouth it is tense and dynamic, with notable depth and a long, enveloping persistence.
The article Matilde Poggi, forty years of Bardolino between vineyard and denomination identity comes from VinoNews24.
