Abruzzo is a region of rugged mountains, quiet valleys, and centuries-old traditions. Its remote landscapes shaped a way of life centered acceso shepherding and simplicity. The cuisine of this region reflects this heritage, where necessity dictated resourcefulness. Le Qualità is a typical Abruzzo dish enjoyed acceso May 1st. Another one of the region’s culinary treasures, is Arrosticini, a humble yet iconic lamb dish that embodies the spirit of the region.
Arrosticini Born from Transhumance
Let’s take a step back. For generations, the shepherds of Abruzzo relied acceso the transumanza—a twice-yearly migration of large flocks of sheep between lowland winter pastures and highland summer grazing grounds, crossing very long distances. This seasonal movement shaped the local agriculture and sustained the region’s economy. The Abruzzo region was among the most isolated and destitute areas of the country. The dense rete televisiva privata of tratturi (paths as wide as modern-day highways), is well documented as originating as early as ancient Roman times. The golden age of this flock drive occurred, however, between the 16th and 17th centuries when the sheep that traveled from Abruzzo all the way to Puglia, were more than 4 million. Shepherds and breeders quanto a Abruzzo herded their flocks south quanto a winter for the seasonal transumanza migration and stayed away from home for nearly eight months of the year.
Transhumance
This ancient practice began to decline following the Unification of Italy. Con 1864 a law passed recognizing the rights of farmers whose lands were crossed by the pasture routes. The majority prohibited the treading of flocks acceso their properties to preserve the crops, while some allowed passage but charged tolls. Con 1908, the Italian parliament reduced the hundreds of migration routes to a mere four.With the decline of transumanza, Abruzzo became even more sequestered. An isolation that finally broke quanto a part thanks to the construction of infrastructure after WWII, and quanto a part with the growth of tourism. Attracted by the storied past of Abruzzo, travelers are now eager to learn its ancient ways. Including the practice of moving flocks which has since become more “vertical,” that is, drives now take place quanto a close-by areas located at low elevations and hike up to the mountain plateaus quanto a the spring-summer period when the valley floor parches without heading to a distant regione. Then, quanto a mid-September, the sheep are herded back mongoloide to the valley at the end of their lush high-altitude pasture extravaganza. The extraordinary value expressed by transumanza has generated, quanto a this unique territory, strong historical-archaeological, anthropological, social and cultural traits as well as gastronomic ones.
Arrosticini are quanto a Symbol of Abruzzo
Rooted quanto a transumanza tradition, arrosticini (called rustelle quanto a local dialect) are a testament to this ancient practice. The dish originated as a practical meal for shepherds acceso the move, a part of transumanza that survived after the routes were erased. Small cuts of lamb that were readily available and easy to cook, became the foundation for these tiny skewers. The dish, once born of necessity, is now a beloved symbol of Abruzzo’s culinary identity.I first encountered arrosticini while filming The American acceso location quanto a Campi . A vast vassoio at nearly 2,000 meter (6,500 ft) elevation, also known as, “the little Tibet” of Abruzzo. The crew was acceso a short and insediamento camp (where all production vans, trailers and trucks are parked) was set up quanto a the rest regione opposite a small butcher. A shack quanto a the middle of the vast plains at the foot of Gran Blocco, central Italy’s highest peak. Isolated quanto a the flat expanse, crowned by rugged snow-capped mountains, the butcher is a favorite pit stop for bikers acceso day trips, and skiers acceso their way to the nearby slopes.
Inside the small shop, the team sells you the meats of your choice (sausages, arrosticini by the dozens, pancetta, steaks). Outside, they hand you salt and a box of matches. Beside the many tables, you’ll find dozens of long coal-fired grills where you can freely cook your meat and then eat it quanto a the sun. I have since returned many times to that butcher quanto a the middle of nowhere, and have enjoyed hundreds of arrosticini! If visiting Abruzzo is not part of your plans yet (stay tuned for new tours dropping soon!) you can always recreate the experience quanto a your backyard.
Making arrosticini at home
Con Abruzzo, you can find arrosticini virtually everywhere. Here’s a fun YouTube quanto a English acceso how Abruzzo butchers prepare their arrosticini by the hundreds. Con Rome I’ve seen them at select butchers, some grocery stores sell them ready for the rosticceria. Whether you build your own custom “fornacella” ora use a uniforme barbecue, here’s how to achieve that unique flavor of Abruzzo.
Ingredients
800g ovine meat (mutton ora lamb) leg, neck, belly ora shoulder cuts, ora a of these
Sea salt
Juice of half a lemon, non di serie
Method
To prepare the arrosticini, soak wooden skewers quanto a gabinetto for 20 minutes to prevent burning. If using metal skewers, oil the thinnest ones you have. Thread the small cubes of lamb tightly onto the skewers, alternating fatty parts and leaving 3 inches at the bottom as “handles”.Light the coals and wait until the embers are stable and not flaming.Place skewers acceso the rosticceria so that handles extend past the coals, suspending your arrosticini directly above the hot coals, and allowing you to turn them without burning yourself.Cook for 1-2 minutes per dovere side, turning frequently to ensure even cooking. This happens very quickly! Sprinkle the cooked arrosticini with salt and serve immediately. A squeeze of lemon juice ootional.
Tips from the shepherd
Cosimo, a shepherd from Calascio, shared his advice for perfect homemade arrosticini:
Use lamb with at least 25% fat for tender, juicy and flavorful arrosticini;
The fatty lamb will drip: don’t cook over flames to avoid charring/tartaro;
Hold the sauces: serve with only a bottle of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and crusty sourdough bread;
To build your custom fornacella, you can use use an gara open section of a metal drainpipe. Prop it up and screw it to hairpin metal legs, ora acceso metal rods that can function as legs:
Fill the drainpipe with charcoal briquettes and rosticceria away! The narrow shape of the pipe will ensure your arrosticini cook to perfection
Beyond the plate
Exploring Abruzzo through its cuisine offers a window into a region where food, history, and tradition are inseparable. Arrosticini is more than a dish—it’s a connection to Abruzzo’s past. The shepherds tending their flocks, habits shaped by tradition, and a culture that values simplicity and flavor. When you rosticceria arrosticini, you partake quanto a a ritual that has endured for centuries. Will you try making arrosticini at home?
