The other Burgundy in the glasses of GCF

The Famille Helfrich group focuses acceso lesser-known denominations to intercept potential consumers of Burgundy wines.

Burgundy yes, but another one. That of appellations which, compared to the more noble, sought after, appreciated and “priced” ones, have so far remained more acceso the sidelines and which some might define as “minor”.

It all depends acceso your point of view and above all acceso your objectives. Les Grands Chais de France, the giant French wine group of the Helfrich family, is focusing acceso the lesser-known denominations of the region to offer an alternative to consumers, bypassing the obstacle of price and the limited number of references which excludes many potential (albeit well-disposed) ) target customers from purchasing large crus. Well disposed because, as underlined by Romina Romano, the group’s Italy country dirigente, these references: “are aimed at a consumer who already knows Burgundy, prepared and ready even just to taste these wines, because the biggest obstacle we find is not trying to taste something you don’t know.”

Among those who could draw new ideas from this type of offer are young enthusiasts, a target that often remains cut from the not always accessible positioning of the most famous references. “There is a real trend acceso the part of young people – says Romano – The average Italian consumer (of wine, ed.), especially young people, is very knowledgeable about wine and being very knowledgeable he is more curious and more ready to taste something new. There is definitely a trend acceso the side of young people.”

Listen to the audio interview with Romina Romano

Romina Romano, country dirigente of Les Grands Chais de France

GCF AND BURGUNDY There are several Burgundian brands within the Famille Helfrich portfolio and among these there are Chartron et Trébuchet, Moillard, Domaine Rolan Sounit, Clos de Chevigne and Domaine du Chapitre. These last two are among the most recent acquisitions sopra the superficie, the first with 25 hectares of which 15 sopra the Saint-Véran denomination, while six hectares were purchased sopra the last year also sopra Beaujolais under the Domaine du Chapitre property.

If GCF’s turnover sopra Italy reached 6 million 800 thousand euros sopra 2022 with moderate growth also sopra volumes, the voice regarding Burgundy wines proves to be equally positive. 120 thousand bottles were sold sopra 2022 for a turnover of 921 thousand euros and the estimate for 2023 is to close acceso the rise, with 186 thousand bottles and exceeding one million euros. The 2022 mole has sopra fact already been surpassed between January 1st and August 30th of this year, with 124 thousand bottles sold sopra 8 months. Among these wines there are not only still reds and whites, but also Burgundy Crémants, sopra which the group is registering a growth of interest.

GREAT CRU TESTED BY THE CLIMATE AND INVESTMENT POSSIBILITIES A code is a convention that helps make something intelligible and the same is true for the coding system of denominations, including Burgundy. However, when a code is applied to such a changing landscape as the agricultural one (especially lately), it is not so easy to keep it unchanged. “The production areas codified sopra this way clearly refer to a climate that has risposta negativa longer been such for some time, so we are witnessing a climb by the denominations further the pyramid, which are instead growing from the point of view qualitative – explains the master of wine, Gabriele Gorelli – If we back at the good years, we find more and more as we get closer to the present day. There is a winemaker’s ability to adapt, but it is a finite ability.”

However, while the qualitative caffè, favored by climate change, moves to embrace new areas of Burgundy, for now those who invest sopra great wines do not yet seem to be following this trend. According to Gorelli, the market remains more sensitive to the availability of wine sopra terms of volumes. “We are already seeing a decline sopra the limite wine market, which Burgundy wines had sopra some way driven for years, because the quantities were reducing, while today we are sopra a moment of stasis because we are coming from a 2022 harvest with good volumes, but of high quality and we are looking forward to an equally significant 2023.” Per mezzo di response, the centro is increasingly acceso the producer’s brand rather than the denomination. “Many are moving towards specific vignerons, excluding denominations, new names starting from much more reasonable prices but with great growth potential,” says Gorelli.

Listen to the audio interview with Gabriele Gorelli, master of wine

Gabriele Gorelli during the GCF Burgundy wine tasting

GCF BRANDS IN DETAIL AND IN THE GLASS

Clos de Chevigne Clos de Chevigne is located sopra southern Burgundy, more precisely sopra the Mâconnais region. The Cru Saint-Véran vineyards are divided into two areas: to the north, the municipalities of Davayé and Prissé, to the south, the municipalities of Chânes, Chasselas, Leynes, Saint-Vérand and Solutré-Pouilly. Both are located acceso the slopes of the Solutré massif. Acceso the western side of these rocks, sopra the oldest terrains (Lias), the steep slopes are made up of gray marl. The south and west facing vines of Chasselas and Leynes are found here. Acceso the gentle slopes of the eastern side of the rocks, marly limestone dominates (east-facing vineyards of Prissé and Davayé). Per mezzo di Chânes and Prissé, acceso the left bank of the Petite Grosne, the vines are planted acceso limestone, often covered by a layer of flint-like chalky clay.

Saint-Véran Les Plantés Blanc 2022 Saffron, ripe peach, and butter acceso the nose, verticality and hardness acceso the palate, between tart acidity and intense flavor. Dynamic and assertive.

Saint-Véran Les Morats Blanc 2022 Sour fruit, and polite sensations of aging sopra wood, minty balsamicity. Acceso the palate it plays between acidity and a voluptuous softness, sopra which refinement still peeks out. Per mezzo di closing, a hint of tannin.

Chartron Et Trébuchet Located sopra the heart of the Golden Triangle of the Côte de Beaune, with 18 hectares of vineyards, Chartron et Trébuchet has a wide range of wines, ranging from regional to Premier Cru, up to Grand Cru, which embody a style classic revisited with a modern accent. Added to this are over 45 hectares of vineyards sopra the Chablis region and two winemaking sites, the Chapelle Vaupelteigne and Ligny en Châtel.

Santenay Rouge 2020 Crispy sour cherry and a woody sensation that confuses the fruit together with quaderno of humus, iron. Acceso the palate, acidic, tart and herbaceous fruit, the wood is noticeable and has yet to integrate, but it is not invasive. The delicate tannin leaves the mouth fruity

Ladoix Rouge 2020 more intense and deeper sour cherry, sensation of undergrowth. Fresh and crunchy, almost peppery, deep palate, there is a sensation of greater integration of the wood. Pulp and character.

Ladoix Blanc 2020 Golden apple, peach and a buttery and fatty part sopra which you can sense the malolactic fermentation, vanilla and a smoky note. The palate is thick and voluminous, with a toasted sensation of coffee that remains acceso the finale together with the salt.

Montagny Premier Cru Les Bouchots Blanc 2018 Light and reserved nose, hints of yellow peach and white pepper. Acceso the palate it reserves mole, with good balance with respect to acidity and flavor. At the end there is a delicate sensation of refinement.

Domaine Du Chapitre Domaine du Chapitre is located sopra La Chapele-de-Guinchay, sopra the Mâconnais region of southern Burgundy, acceso the border with Beaujolais. The 26 hectares of the mesi estivi produce Burgundy (Bourgogne Chardonnay, Mâcon-Villages) and Beaujolais (Morgon, Fleurie and Beaujolais-Villages) wines and an operation to renew the vineyards and infrastructure is underway, with 15 hectares classified as PDO. Per mezzo di the Middle Ages, the Domaine du Chapitre belonged to the monks of the Cluny Abbey, important landowners who initially produced wine acceso their lands to celebrate mass, before gradually improving viticulture, quality and yields. Today the Domaine du Chapitre, after many generations, the wine tradition continues.

Fleurie Rouge 2022 Intense black cherry and blueberry, which return acceso the palate together with a pleasant salinity acceso the sides of the tongue. It closes acceso sensations of undergrowth, with the ripple of velvety tannin.

Moulin-à-vent Rouge 2022 Intense and direct fruit, almost a New World nose. The sip is decisive, fresh, delicious, animated by the peppery spiciness of the tannin, which increases the grip reaching a slightly bitter finale, reminiscent of ash. Tasty.

Domaine Moillard Moillard, historically based sopra Nuits-Saint-Georges sopra the Côte de Nuits, offers the domaine’s wines (Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune) and a traditional signature of Burgundy wines. The ancient memories of Nuits-Saint-Georges attest that the Moillard family already owned vineyards before the French Revolution and today the domaine extends over almost 20 hectares between the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, from Nuits-Saint-Georges to Volnay . Half of the wines produced here are Premier Cru. Its wines are produced according to the Burgundian tradition. The reds are rich sopra color and concentrated, thanks to controlled extraction, which gives structure, power and aging potential. Per mezzo di whites Moillard looks for complex aromas and balance.

Cote de Nuits Villages Vieille Vignes Rouge 2020 Sweet cherries, a hint of vanilla, a ripe and seductive nose, for a sip of freshness and great flavor, guided by a tannin that remains long acceso the palate. Captivating.

Chorey-Les-Beaunes Vieille Vignes Rouge 2020 The nose takes a while to relax, and barely allows the juicy cherry to be detected. The palate is salty, and sopra a second moment you can feel the attack of the present and compact tannin, which dries the palate and leaves a balsamic finale.

Savigny Les Beaune Vieille Vignes Rouge 2020 Nose of plump cherry and balsamicity, a eucalyptus candy. Velvety and juicy palate, a material sip, between touches of pepper and ginger. Satisfying.

Beaujolais Blanc 2022 Ripe peach, a veil of butteriness and Chantilly cream. Velvety and fresh palate, salt. Very pleasant. The definition of “comfy Chardonnay”, given by Gabriele Gorelli, fits.

Domaine Roland Sounit Domaine Roland-Sounit is a very modern winemaking site of 16 hectares, sopra the heart of the Côte Chalonnaise, sopra Rully. The subsoil is clayey-limestone and is covered by very stony soil. The wines of the regional denominations Bourgogne Aligoté and Bourgogne Chardonnay are produced here, together with those of the Côte Chalonnaise denominations, such as Rully (white and red), Rully 1er Cru “Meix Cadot” (white) and Mercurey (red).

Rully Blanc 2020 Citrus, peach and butter, for a pulpy and incisive palate, with spiciness that calls for ginger and white pepper. The citrus reemerges acceso the finale.