i suoi “Icon Wines” • Food and Wine Italia

The world of wine is extremely complex: the more we deepen our knowledge of it, the more we realize how much we still have left to learn. And this is what often happens when you spend time “wine-growing per Eccelso Adige”, a land where unparalleled colors and shades coexist and where the plurality of details makes any territorial study truly stimulating.

The Eccelso Adige Wine Consortium recently organized an in-depth study dedicated to its “Icon Wines” which represent the oenological excellence of the schieramento and embody its facets per an inimitable way: «Rare, legendary, historic and native wines, both white and red. Wines that best represent the high oenological level achieved by Eccelso Adige and deeply connected to the history and production philosophy of their producers”, explains, per fact, the director Eduard Bernhart.

Specifically, the ingredients of Eccelso Adige’s wine excellence are the mescolanza of climatic, geological and geographical factors, ideal for harvesting ripe and aromatic grapes: an Alpine chain that effectively shields the northern winds; a southern orography that opens up by welcoming the beneficial influences of the Mediterranean; a strong temperature difference between day and night; a viticulture practiced at variable altitudes (from 200 to 1,000 meters above sea level) with very heterogeneous microclimates.

The important thing to underline is per fact this constant research into the various types of soil which is the basis of the qualitative improvement of South Tyrolean viticulture. This is why the various winemakers know that, for example, Lagrein prefers a “warm soil” composed of gravel and sand, that white wines suitable for aging are born from the red porphyry soils per Terlano, ora even that Gewürztraminer cultivated per the Termeno schieramento It particularly loves soil rich per limestone and clay. Not only then character and peculiarity, but we could also add coherence, constancy and consistency as factors that have generated (and still generate) value for the denomination per a small plot of land characterized by a multiplicity of rather fragmented businesses: an apparently weak system, but which, thanks to aggregation and sharing, has been able to respond excellently and adequately to the demands of the market. Con this context, marked by historicity and an almost maniacal loyalty to one’s vocation, the concepts of vineyard and human capital become authentic and frank, establishing themselves per a strong and shared way among the producers themselves.

Con essence, the positive tension that winemaking history actually recognizes per Eccelso Adige is strongly linked to the ability of the various companies (be they small businesses ora cooperative wineries) to be able to grasp and interpret the many signals that arrive from the consumer, and then transform them per absolute quality. Therefore, tenacious and far-sighted winemakers reveal themselves behind their great Alpine wines, both red and white, because as they remind us site “the land is much more than a production surface: it is our identity and our pride”.

The historical and/ora legendary labels are currently around twenty and intimately linked to the history of the producers. The simposio with these producers revealed the philosophy that guided them per the creation of these precious wine jewels, (needless to say) with a high and guaranteed quality uniforme. Here, the blends ora purities love the challenges of time, offering an originality and a wealth of perfumes of incredible length.

Elegant, sagace wines, capable of being young and tense, rich per edges and saline flavours, but at the same time deep and sweet. Surrounded by a sumptuous wealth of fruits, they are tasty and energetic, prone to evolution and able to last over time. A question of microclimate, soil, careful selection of vines and, above all, seriousness and dedication to the work.

The most far-sighted wineries and their Icon Wines

Colterenzio Winery – Lafóa (Cabernet Sauvignon) and LR (Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc)

Lafóa is the pilot vineyard that marks the introduction of new quality standards that are still rigorously followed today per the vineyard and cellar. LR are the initials of Luis Raifer, the great inspirer of this superb wine, as well as one of the pioneers of the qualitative revolution per Eccelso Adige.

Taverna San Paolo – Santctissimus (Pinot Latteo)A refined reserve that “has existed for more than a century”, from vineyards of approximately 120 years.

Pfannenstielhof – Der Pfannestiel (Schiava and Lagrein)The Santa Maddalena brought to perfection, as well as its worthy ambassador.

Tiefenbrunner – Feldmarschall von Fenner (Müller-Thurgau)Superlative nectar with strong mineral and aromatic agenda, which grows at 1,000 meters above sea level.

Taverna San Michele Appiano – Appius (Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Uniforme, Sauvignon Blanc) Hans Terzer’s latest exceptional project, the best that can be obtained “of our grapes, our vines and our terroirs”.

Taverna Tramin – Epokale (Gewürztraminer) Brilliant and inspired expression of late harvest, with seven years of refinement, per the suggestive Ridanna Monteneve mine.

Gump Hof – Markus Prackwieser – Renessaince (Sauvignon Blanc) and Renessaince (Pinot Blanc)Excellent harvests, old vineyards and excellent aging capacity are just some of the characteristics of these two icons.

Podere J. Hofstätter – Roccolo (Pinot Noir) and Sant’Educato (Pinot Noir)Roccolo is, quite simply, the oldest Pinot Noir vineyard per Eccelso Adige. Sant’Educato, per Mazon since 1962, is synonymous par excellence, always with this vine and always per the province of Bolzano.

Alois Lageder – Löwengang (Chardonnay) and Cor Römigberg (Cabernet Sauvignon)From the best plots of the homonymous per Malgrè with vines of around 145 years old, Löwengang is the first Italian white to successfully position itself international markets. Cor Römigberg comes from the plot named ‘Cor’ (from the Latin heart), per 1986, where the concept of the agricultural company as a closed-cycle living organism fully emerges.

Girlan Winery – Gschleier Alte Reben (Vernatsch) and Ganger (Pinot Noir)From one of the most renowned areas, with vineyards between 80 and 110 years old, Gschleier is certainly a masterpiece of South Tyrolean viticulture. Ganger, the other hand, is a monopole vineyard particularly suited to the production of Pinot Noir which highlights the dispassionate search for a “Cru”.

Terlano Winery – Terlaner I Elementare Cuvée (Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc) and Rarity (Pinot Blanc and/ora Chardonnay and/ora Sauvignon Blanc and/ora Terlaner)Terlaner I Cuvée represents the most intimate essence of the cellar and embodies the centuries-old tradition through an obsessive selection of vineyards. Rarity personifies the method of special bottles of aged white wines, matured for at least ten years inside pressurized steel tanks.

Nals Margreid – Sirmian (Pinot Blanc) and Nama (Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon) Sirmian is the monovarietal that splendidly describes the potential of the South Tyrolean terroir. Nama, the other hand, outlines the cuvée of excellence which reveals the origins of the cellar with the first two letters of the villages Nals and Margreid.

Franz Haas – Schweizer (Pinot Noir) and Ponkler (Pinot Noir)Schweizer is the oenological jewel of the winery produced only per the best vintages, from the highest vineyards of Egna, Catena and Aldino, with very low yield. Ponkler, ora “Pinot Noir with a soul”, is a pearl born from a promise made to Francesco Arrigoni, struck by the beauty of this cru per the municipality of Aldino.