Mandrolisai, a hidden Sardinian treasure • Food and Wine Italia

Per mezzo di the exact center of Sardinia there is a place, the Mandrolisai (the westernmost of the Barbagie) that emanates sacredness and generates suggestion, both for its viticultural characteristics and for its ancient buildings. You can clearly perceive it by visiting the most extraordinary grouping of menhirs per mezzo di the Mediterranean, the archaeological park of Biru ‘e Concas, which literally means “path of the heads” ora the sanctuary of San Mauro, a perfect synthesis of late Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance art, as well as its polycultural ambiente: one of the fourteen per mezzo di Italy registered per mezzo di the National Register of Rural Landscapes of Historical Interest; among other things, the only one per mezzo di the region, by virtue of the fact that per mezzo di the last 200 years the destination of the land has remained unchanged.

We are talking about a territory whose extraordinary value still lies per mezzo di the conformation of its terroir, which combines specific climatic conditions and a significant variability per mezzo di the geological composition as a factor of diversification within the same production territorio. Per mezzo di fact, it is a with a very strong biodiversity covered with forests of holm oaks, downy oaks and cork oaks; then vegetable gardens, pastures, livestock, fruit trees and to a minimal extent vineyards. The altitudes to which the vine has reached reach almost a thousand meters, starting from 350-400 meters as the lowest altitude. The vines historically most present per mezzo di this territorio are Cannonau, Bovale (ora Bovaleddu ora Muristeddu) and Monica, registered per mezzo di the Mandrolisai DOC regulations. The heritage of old vineyards is impressive, also because the vines themselves are often endowed with impressive promiscuity and can present within them even dozens of different varieties: a fascinating Babel of methods and knowledge that shun standardizations and homologations.

Mandrolisai could then be defined as a “Jurassic Park” of viticulture where the vines are the fruit of a millenary culture that has remained almost intact, based acceso the concept of non-ownership and natural family inheritance, per mezzo di which each field has a specific destination for agricultural activity. The wines have an exuberant character of aggressive power, but per mezzo di an overall tense, contrasting and sustained framework. Its cuisine, acceso the other hand, rigorously traditional (it is a triumph of meats and cheeses) fully expresses the characteristics of the island: that is, the awareness of the importance of the sea, but at the same time its distrust, as a potential access route for enemies from whom the mountainous interior serves as a refuge.

Where to taste wines

The Autorimessa Owners of Sorgono

Pietro Uras, Renzo A manca and Simone Murro are three guys who have taken their destiny into their own hands, winemakers at heart who used to do other jobs (the first two), a young winemaker (the third). All three have inherited the art of the vineyard and of making wine per mezzo di Mandrolisai. All three with family vineyards passed from father to son, 10 hectares of old saplings between 60 and 80 years old, at altitudes of 500 to 700 meters, per mezzo di Burdaga, Figu, Pischina, Pardu and Cresia, with very low yields. “I Garagisti” have created three labels corresponding to each vineyard, with their surname and luce acceso the label: Uras (the Mandrolisai Doc), A manca (the anche Cannonau), Murru (the anche Monica). These are the fundamental wines for understanding the genius loci with very squisito, clear, refined aromas and sips that reveal the energy of the terroir acceso the palate.

Cantine Fradiles

Per mezzo di Sardinian it means cousins ​​and this company, located per mezzo di Creccheri su Atzara, per mezzo di the heart of Mandrolisai, wanted to underline the family connection that determined its foundation right from its name: constant commitment, care of the land and investment per mezzo di family ties are the strength of this company. Cousins ​​Paolo Savoldo and Giuseppe Flore take care of a vineyard park of fourteen hectares, which grow between 450 and 700 meters above sea level, with also plots of only ungrafted saplings, some of which are 85 years old and even 110 years old. Various Mandrolisai Doc products with an excellent territorial imprint style with an eye acceso the search for taste-olfactory fragrance: Angaris and Memorias Creccherie (Cru line) Antiogu and Fradiles (classic line).

Demelas

Per mezzo di a climate of authentic tradition, Damiano, Roberta and Lorenzo Demelas, because “just making bulk wines for friends is not enough”, feel the desire to enhance Mandrolisai per mezzo di another way. Thus, starting from the 2019 harvest, they decide to interpret the territory according to a genuine and meticulous style. The logo, a stylised luce, reminiscent of traditional Sardinian masks, symbolises the fact that behind each bottle there is not a single person, but an entire family. Domo and Giuàle are the Mandrolisai Doc of prominence.

Spaccio Su Binariu

The name of the winery is deeply inspired by the historic railway that runs alongside the vineyards and that, over a century pungiglione, allowed Cagliari to be connected to the center of the island. The tradition and passion for the culture of the vine and the art of wine by the three Zedde brothers gave life to this small winery with vines of 70-80 years acceso average that give fragrant and vigorous nectars. Three Buccas their Mandrolisai of the heart.

Mandrolisai Cellar

The Agricultural Cooperative was founded per mezzo di 1950 and the first harvest dates back to 1952. The structure brings together members from the territory belonging to the municipalities of Sorgono and Atzara (Nuoro) and also those from the municipalities of Meana Sardo, Ortueri and Samugheo (Oristano). The new flagship line is called Kent’Annos, (including a remarkable selection of Mandrolisai Doc), dedicated to the legendary longevity of the Sardinians and per mezzo di particular to the centenarians of this part of the island.

Where to taste typical recipes

Farmhouse Su Connottu

It is the story of a family (Tino and Antonietta are the parents, while Ignazio, Daniele and Laura are the children) with a dream per mezzo di the drawer: to create a farmhouse that enhances flavors and traditions. The name is not a simple coincidence, since its meaning reflects their philosophy: “Return to what is known”. Immersed per mezzo di vineyards and orchards, per mezzo di a welcoming and warm environment, you can appreciate succulent dishes such as Malloreddus with pork sauce, Muflone per mezzo di bagnato, Petza imbinada (a sort of pork stew left to marinate per mezzo di wine and vinegar), delicious homemade cured meats and various typical cheeses.

‘s Ristorante

Gianni, per mezzo di the dining room, welcomes guests with kindness and professionalism, while his wife Maria Antonietta lovingly cooks traditional dishes. Per mezzo di a rustic setting, since 1965, ora rather per mezzo di a place where you can feel at home, it is worth ordering dishes such as Fregula with sausage and mushrooms, Culurgiones stuffed with pecorino and mint, Homemade Spaghetti cooked per mezzo di sheep broth with the addition of black pepper, saffron and fresh pecorino and broad beans with pecorino.