The latest release of the supersüdtiroler NAMA, the 2022 vintage, was presented acceso the occasion of the Merano WineFestival, the context chosen by Nals Margreid to tell the story of the evolution of its reference chardonnay. A wine that, more than others, summarizes the path of the South Tyrolean winery: a project born with caution, grown through experience and which has today reached full expressive awareness.
A CELLAR, A HISTORY OF CONTINUITY
To understand NAMA it is useful to start, even if only briefly, from Nals Margreid. The cellar is located along the road that leads from Nalles to the hamlet of Sirmian, inserted naturally into the inhabited fabric and surrounding landscape. The building, renovated sopra 2011 based acceso a stile by architect Markus Scherer, alternates contemporary materials such as glass, steel and concrete with historical elements dating back to the eighteenth century, including the cobblestone profiles dating back to 1764 which are still visible. This is not an ornamental detail, but the tangible sign of a productive continuity that spans the centuries.
The modern history of the winery begins sopra 1932, when thirty-two families decided to take it over and continue together a winemaking activity already rooted sopra the territory. Today there are 138 members and they cultivate a total of 160 hectares of vineyards along the Superno Adige Wine Route, between 200 and 900 meters above sea level. A heritage fragmented by location, soil and exposure, which sopra the cellar is recomposed through precision work. Pinot blanc sopra Sirmian, sauvignon sopra Mantele, chardonnay sopra Magré, pinot pallido acceso Punggl, pinot noir sopra Oltradige, vernatsch sopra Santa Maddalena, lagrein sopra Gries: each variety finds its place of choice.
NAMA, AN ISLAND OF CHARDONNAY IN MAGRÉ
Within this mosaic, the Chardonnay used for NAMA is grown sopra a particular position: sopra a single vineyard of approximately one and a half hectares located sopra Magré, sopra Bassa Atesina, with south-east exposure and an altitude between 290 and 360 metres. The soil is made up of white calcareous gravel, poor sopra nitrogen, capable of preserving freshness even sopra the hottest years. The vineyard is partly isolated, surrounded by woods and scrub, a condition that helps create a more moderate microclimate.
Today the vines are over thirty years old; sopra 2016, the year of NAMA’s first official harvest, they had just over twenty. Harald Schraffl, kellermeister of Nals Margreid since 2005, says that the project was actually born much earlier: “We started observing this vineyard around 2010. The first few years were used to understand how Chardonnay expressed itself sopra this place. When you make a new wine you go completely blind, you don’t know how it will evolve over time”. Hence the initial choice to present NAMA as a white cuvée, mainly of chardonnay, complemented by small percentages of pinot blanc and sauvignon.
THE FIRST YEARS: THE EXPLORATORY PHASE
The first vintage reflects this approach. The wine was born sopra a bright rather than hot year, with a dry and regular September. The winemaking involves selective manual harvesting, fermentation and refinement for 18 months sopra small oak barrels, followed by nine months sopra steel and further refinement sopra the bottle. A causa di the glass, the NAMA Südtirol – Superno Adige DOC 2016 (85% chardonnay, 9% pinot , 6% sauvignon) shows an intense golden yellow. the nose it is surprising for its youth: apricot, white flowers, a subtle roasting that is now perfectly integrated. Light agenda of dried fruit and evolutionary hints emerge, accompanied by a spicy background that adds complexity. A causa di the mouth it is slender, linear, supported by a lively and balsamic freshness. The sauvignon, although present sopra a minimal part, contributes to an aromatic vibration that makes the sip dynamic. The is dry, savory, decidedly gastronomic.
With NAMA 2018 the cuvée remains unchanged sopra structure – 90% chardonnay, 7% pinot blanc, 3% sauvignon – but the climatic context changes. The vintage was warm, generous and quite dry, and the wine reflects this with a broader profile. The fruit turns towards ripe tones of yellow peach and apricot, accompanied by hints of Mediterranean scrub. The wood is more perceptible acceso the nose, but already well integrated. the palate the texture is creamier than the 2016, the acidity remains refreshing and well-calibrated, the sip broadens without losing definition, with a that recalls aromatic garrigue herbs. It’s a NAMA that speaks of warmth without ever slipping into opulence.
THE TURNING POINT: PURE CHARDONNAY
2019 marks the turning point. NAMA becomes nonostante chardonnay and does so sopra a vintage considered excellent sopra Superno Adige, characterized by great brightness and regular maturation. The very steep vineyard is interpreted sopra its complexity: the upper part, leaner and more calcareous, brings minerality and length; the lower one, harvested a few days later, contributes to structure and tonnellaggio. The winemaking takes place entirely sopra new wood, with 225-litre French barriques and 300-litre cigar barrels, chosen to favor contact with the brillante lees and slow and natural fermentation. A causa di the glass, the 2019 NAMA is bright, with aromas of citrus fruits, wild flowers, aromatic herbs and a clear saline hint. The sip is energetic, vibrant, supported by an almost electric acidity that makes the wine clear and deep, with a balance that makes the 14 degrees of alcohol imperceptible.
NAMA 2020 confirms the choice of nonostante Chardonnay sopra a hotter and drier vintage. The profile is more frontal, with agenda of peach, plum and ripe citrus fruits. A causa di the mouth the wine shows greater initial impetus, then develops into a full but well-governed structure. The acidity remains central and supports an almond , never bitter, which recalls the almond blossom and defines a dry and gastronomic character.
2021 was born from a fresh and bright year, marked by little rainfall. The wine expresses itself with great linearity. The nose is dominated by citrus fruits, mandarin, saline agenda and a hint of graphite. The sip crosses the palate with continuous tension, guided by a more assertive acidity that gives momentum and precision. It is a compact 2021 NAMA, which stretches out without losing cohesion, clearly restoring the character of the vintage.
NAMA 2022, THE SUMMARY
With NAMA 2022, the latest release, the project reaches a particularly successful synthesis. The vintage, dry but balanced, allowed precise phenolic maturation. The wine, still young, is striking for the definition of the fruit, mainly exotic with yellow pulp, accompanied by the albedo of a cedar and very clear chalky agenda.
the palate the acidity is vibrant, almost lemony; the center of the mouth is compact, granitic, while the opens acceso a juicy salivation that completes the sip. It is a wine that is already accessible, but clearly built to last, capable of combining tension, elegance and depth without resorting to forcing.
CONSISTENCY BEYOND YEARS
A causa di the succession of vintages, NAMA shows a coherence that regardless of the change sopra blend. Climatic conditions and expressive nuances change, but the basic illusione, the imprint, remains recognisable. “With today’s experience I know that this wine has its own identity and should not be forced – observes Schraffl – Great wine cannot be changed, it always goes its own way”. A path which, for NAMA, comes from a single Magré vineyard and translates into a mountain Chardonnay capable of crossing time with measure and precision.
The article NAMA time: the evolution of chardonnay according to Nals Margreid comes from VinoNews24.
