When Paolo De Marchi vinified the Cepppallo for the first time per 1980, few would have bet that that “table wine” – to which a vertical attributes the right merits – produced using only Sangiovese would have become an icon. The wine symbol of islands and olena is not only one of the first suddenly from Sangiovese per purity, but a affisso: that of a company that has always put quality to conformism, and today, over forty years later, Ceppparello is still there, to demonstrate that greatness does not need compromises.
Born as a challenge to the rules of the Chianti Rappresentativo – which at the time imposed the addition of other native vines, including those with white berry – the Cepppallo is today a Tuscan IGT that embodies the essence of a territory and a philosophy: meticulous selection, respect for the vineyard, constant evolution.
The gratitude of the new property for Paolo De Marchi
The history of Islands and Olena is inextricably linked to that of the De Marchi family, who per 1956 purchased the mesi estivi. Paolo De Marchi, son of the founder Francesco, at the time twenty -five years old he took the reins per 1976 and, four years later, he created precisely the Ceppparello, a name that pays homage to the stream that crosses the property.
Since 2022, the cellar has been under the control of Epi, a French group led by Christopher Descours, already owner of Biondi-Santi. But the passage took place per the sign of continuity and managed with much respect. Emanuele Reolon, a new summer director, spent a year side by side with Paolo De Marchi to assimilate vision and philosophy. His is a true and felt gratitude towards.
“For a year I was lucky enough to stay daily with Paolo, a wonderful person who had the strong desire to share all his passion, his knowledge, but above all the story of islands and olena, not only the oenological one but also the human one – says Reolon – Paolo is the greatest vigner per Italy, has a sensitivity and unique connection with the vineyards slowness, but a profound respect for what was there.
With Epi and Reolon, Islands and Olena looks forward without tearing with the past and history. “The mission remains the same: unique wines – continues Reolon – Paolo has built something special. Our task is to preserve it, improving it where possible”.
Not a single vineyard: selection as art
The Ceppparello does not arise from a single vineyard, but from a maniacal selection of the best Sangiovese grapes of the mesi estivi, which involves dozens of parcels every year. The 56 hectares of vineyards – of which 41 dedicated to Sangiovese – are distributed between the two villages from which the company takes its name: islands, with soils rich per clay and Alberese, and olena, dominated by galley and limestone.
“The variability of our land is our wealth – explains Emanuele Reolon – each vintage gives us different grapes, and our task is to choose the ones that, at that precise moment, have expressed the best of the Sangiovese potential. For this reason the Ceppparello will never be a ‘single Vineyard’, but a symphony of parcels that changes every year”.
The selection begins already at the end of July, with a first screening of the candidate fees. Then, during the harvest, a further skimming is made, followed by a third selection after fermentation and a fourth, definitive, after a year of wood. Sopra the end, only thirty parcels enter the final blend, which continues to mature further six months per wood and then rest a whole year per the bottle.
Microvinifications and clones, the secret of complexity
Each selected parcel follows an individual path: manual collection, fermentation per troncoconical vat of French oak and separate aging. Recently, the arrival of the pedologist Pedro Parra has led to an even more per -depth analysis of the soils, aimed at identifying further microparticles per order to increase the principio from which to choose the best Sangiovese that will enter the Ceppollo. “We also made an important investment per the cellar – says Reolon – with the purchase of smaller tanks to increase the microvinifications. The more detail we have, the more precise the Ceppparello will be precise”.
Another key element are the 12 clones of Sangiovese registered by Islands and Olena, derived from historic mother camps. “They are late maturation clones, with high natural acidity” – remarks reolon – “with climate change, this feature has become crucial: it allows us to maintain freshness and elegance, even per the hottest vintages.”
The evolution of wood: from barriques to large barrels
If per the early years the Cepppallo matured exclusively per barrique, today the approach is more articulated. Since 2020, tonneau have been introduced, while the real novelty has arrived with the 2022 vintage: the use of large barrels (25% of the mass), supported with barrique and tonneau. “We want a wood that respects the fruit” – underlines Reolon – “large barrels allow us to preserve freshness and drinkability, without flattening the shades of Sangiovese.” With the 2024 harvest only 50% of the wine will ripen per barrique, while the rest will be divided between tonneaux and large barrels, with the percentage of small wood destined to go per the coming years.
Ceptarello vertically
A vertical of nine vintages, all belonging to the 2000s: a selection that, according to Islands and Olena, best represents the evolution – also climatic – of the Ceppollo. It starts from 2005, until you reach 2022, a preview vintage that will debut the market per the late summer. “A pioneering Superuscan, an authentic Sangiovese”, which has always been produced per only 50 thousand bottles per certo year – equal to about 25% of the Sangiovese of the entire mesi estivi.
Nine wines, a single soul: an always present red fruity, which varies from the most acidic to the slightly more ripe ones; A balsamic signature that ranges from mint to Euelptus, up to suggestions of Declivio; A constant elegance and a dense, refined, always fresh tannic plot, sometimes with greater grip, others more enveloping. There is mai lack of the mineral touch, which is expressed with sensations of plaster and light shades of stone. All accompanied by a basic flavor that, depending the year, recalls iodine , brackish, recalls a bow of salt that shakes per the mouth the scent of oysters.
Ceptarello 2005
Climate: fluctuating summer, with late rains that delayed the harvest.
It presents itself with a bright grenade, still per excellent shape. the nose, it is a succession of licorice, tobacco and small slightly surmaturious red fruits; A hint of black pepper that emerges with oxygenation, and a balsamic trail that recalls the slope. Sopra the mouth, the tannin is silky, smooth by time, but retains a surprising freshness. The ending, long and clean, leaves traces of cocoa and bitter orange. A wine that shows how difficult vintages can give surprises.
Cepparello 2010
Climate: late harvest, with an ideal autumn for perfect maturation.
A powerful but never heavy capping. The grenade scratches anticipate the great balance reached by this wine, the nose is a vortex of wild blueberries, dry plums and graphite, with shades of rosemary and dark chocolate and mint. Sopra the mouth, the structure is imposing, with still youth tannins but of a superlative grain. The still perceptible acidity balances the density of the fruit, giving an endless ending, where sweet spices alternate and a iodized touch. A wine that still has time per front of him.
CEPPARello 2014
Climate: rainy spring, and vintage saved by a sunny September.
It is an elegant, almost introverted wine. The olfactory profile recalls Violetta, Camphor and a blood tip, with a balsam that refers to Euelptus. Sopra the mouth, the freshness is sharp, almost nervous, with tannins that still appear a little bit. It is not the most harmonious cepple, but has an irresistible drinkability, with a ultimo dominated by candied citrus fruits and white pepper.
Cepparello 2015
Climate: fresh summer, with a sudden heat per September.
A muscular Sangiovese, with a decisive character. The nose explodes with of cherry per spirit, licorice and leather, the palate the red fruit is still juicy, a powerful, almost rough tannin is imposed, which still asks for time. The structure is vertical, with a freshness that eroe -emerges per the final, together with memories of toasted hazelnuts and tobacco. A cappallo for those who love a little more rustic and intense wines.
CEPPARello 2016
Climate: balanced vintage, with well -distributed rains.
2016 is a wine of extraordinary purity. The red fruit (Visciole, raspberries and woods of forest) is surrounded by delicate floral and almost saline minerality. The freshness of the Mediterranean scrub the palate becomes balsamic and spicy, the plot is silky, perfectly balanced, with tannins that melt per a very long , where marked SAVID sensations stand out, accompanied by a slightly advanced touch that per any case ennobles it. A Cepppallo that already amazes today, but that will have a magnificent evolution.
Cepparello 2019
Climate: regular vintage from the good effect the surrender, generous both per terms of quality and quantity
It is an opulent wine with a generous fruit. The nose is dominated by more, mature cherry and sweet spices (cinnamon, vanilla), while the palate the structure is enveloping, almost fleshy. The tannins, although present, are soft and well integrated, and the ending is a symphony of dark chocolate and licorice. An immediate, but not trivial capping.
Ceptarello 2020
Climate: dry summer, with a rainy August that saved grape maturation thanks also to the arrival of the good weather per September.
Bright, with crystal clear elegance. the nose, currant, raspberry and a tip of menthol, with an impalpable ferrous minerality. Sopra the mouth, the freshness is lively, the silky but present tannin, and the ending is a dance of citrus and black pepper. A Ceppparello who already makes himself loved today, but who will have a fascinating evolution.
Ceptarello 2021
Climate: Difficult spring, with reduced but very high quality production.
2021 is a wine of rare depth. The nose is a kaleidoscope of small red fruits, currants and raspberries, dark fruits of blackberries and black cherries, rose petals and sweet spices, with an unexpected balsamicity that recalls the pine Mongo. Sopra the mouth, the structure is filigranized, with dense but smooth tannins, and a ultimo that seems to never end, between iodine flavors and a touch of coffee. An already magnificent cepp, but intended for great things.
Ceptarello 2022
Climate: torrid summer, with saving rains per August, which allowed to arrive at a harvest (early) with healthy and mature bunches.
A preview wine, young but already very promised. The nose is dominated by a bright red fruit (cherry, pomegranate) and fresh spices. Sopra the mouth, the tannin is crunchy, almost saline, with a freshness that echoes wild blueberry. The long and vibrant ending suggests an extraordinary potential.
The Ceppollo of Islands and Olena article, Sangiovese without compromise vertically comes from Vinonews24.
